How to clean brass???

Rusty
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DRSS, NRA & SCI Life Member
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16 March 2014, 17:55

Jerry Liles

A less expensive way is with a vibrator type tumbler with ground walnut hull media. I use a cheap tumbler from Frankford arsenal (sold by Midway), walnut hull media with three caps full of mineral spirits and a tablespoon of BonAmi cleanser. Tumble for 1 to 2 hours and the cases are clean and bright. If the tarnish or corrosion is really bad you will need a more aggressive method such as ceramic or stainless steel media and a rotary tumbler like Graybird advocates.

Jerry Liles

16 March 2014, 20:10

Shof

And a great source for crushed walnut media is Petsmart! Simply go buy a bag of "Lizard Litter..."

16 March 2014, 21:34

ted thorn

Vibro bowl of your choice.

Crushed Walnut you get at the pet store

Liquid car wax or liquid rubbing compound (Turtle Wax)....just a quick squirt into the media

I run mine overnight.....usually before deprim

For a better shine use corncob media

I have an ultrasonic and only use it as a step ahead of tumbling for dirty brass or to also clean primer pockets.
I don't like my ultrasonic for finished product. That's just me though

17 March 2014, 09:43

Shootshellz

If they are already primed I would use a rag and some Flitz polish, plus a dab of elbow grease.

17 March 2014, 09:44

Mike_Dettorre

I am a heathen. I shoot dirty brass.

Mike

Legistine actu quod scripsi?

Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue.

What I have learned on AR, since 2001:
1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken.
2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps.
3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges.
4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down.
5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine.
6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle.
7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions.
8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA.
9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not.
10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact.
11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores.
12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence.
13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances.

17 March 2014, 14:48

alleyyooper

To save time and unneeded trouble I'd just load and shoot. I don't think the dullness affects accaricery all that much.

17 March 2014, 15:34

hawkins

The only reason to shine up your brass is to
impress the boys at the range.

17 March 2014, 20:49

deltam

quote:
Originally posted by The Senator:
Just getting back into reloading after about 20yrs. I picked up some 25-06 brass that had been full length resized and new primers put in. They are 100 of them. The brass is very dull, how can I clean them besides wearing my fingers out using 0000 steel wool? Thanks for your input. I appreciate it.
The Senator

Any cleaning at this stage could mess up the primer.

18 March 2014, 16:05

Rusty

quote:
Originally posted by Mike_Dettorre:
I am a heathen. I shoot dirty brass.

The Church grants a certain dispensation in these matters!

18 March 2014, 16:32

Jerry Liles

There are very good reasons to clean your brass: To remove grime and grit before sizing to remove case lube after sizing and to allow easier and better inspection of the cases before loading. As long as you should do these steps might as well make the brass pretty while doing it. I clean my firearms after shooting. Shouldn't I do the same for my cases?

Jerry Liles

18 March 2014, 16:34

Edmond

Should be posted on the Humour Forum!

quote:
Originally posted by Mike_Dettorre:
What I have learned on AR:
1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place to get a steak dinner? is…you really want pork chops.
2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps.
3. The laws of physics do not apply to firearms in that there is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges and some cartridges are so powerful their kinetic energy can knock big game off its feet but not knock the shooter who fired it off their feet.
4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified so it can carry at least 5 down.
5. While a floor plate and a detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that almost every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine including those chambered in 50 BMG.
6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle.
7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions.
8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (regardless that most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA.
9. The size of the ding in the gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether the ding occurred in the safe or in the field because safe dings are ok but field dings are worse.
10. One in a row is a trend, two in a row is statistically significant, and three similar occurrences in a row is an irrefutable fact.
11. The AR Posting Quotient: the total number of posts divided by the number of days as a member: if greater than 2.5, recommend therapy.
12. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry, 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa.
13. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry, 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, 9,3x62 and all Weatherby cartridges abound in back country stores.

18 March 2014, 22:05

deltam

quote:
Originally posted by Jerry Liles:
There are very good reasons to clean your brass: To remove grime and grit before sizing to remove case lube after sizing and to allow easier and better inspection of the cases before loading. As long as you should do these steps might as well make the brass pretty while doing it. I clean my firearms after shooting. Shouldn't I do the same for my cases?
Jerry Liles

Agree.

It is much easier to get the primer pockets clean when you clean the whole piece of brass. Having a proud primer is hazardous.

I use stainless steel pins in a thumbler.

19 March 2014, 03:17

friarmeier

quote:
Originally posted by Mike_Dettorre:
I am a heathen. I shoot dirty brass.

Not a heathen - a HILLBILLY

22 March 2014, 03:30

Atkinson

Brass should be clean, but not shiny like so many folks adore because its pretty! for one thing it doesn't grip the walls of the chamber as well. I know of a big bore rifle (404 as I recall) that allowed the second and 3 rounds to pop out of the magazine and it had been a perfect feed and function Mauser for years, One would assume wear on the rails but brass is softer than steel so that didn't figure..It was sent to Dennis Olson..it was fixed by simply not polishing the brass, just cleaning it..if it was slick it poped out like poop thru a goose..Keep in mind the tolerences in a bolt action rifle are critical as hell, I have seen just a mini thousands off make a rifle jam and when honed properly it worked slick, too much hone and it moved the case wrong..

Today I clean on ocassion, and never polish them.

22 March 2014, 04:08

JGRaider

Cleaning brass and primer pockets are both a waste of time.

22 March 2014, 05:09

deltam

quote:
Originally posted by JGRaider:
Cleaning brass and primer pockets are both a waste of time.

Disagree. A proud primer (not below the level of the brass) can pre-maturely detonate.

22 March 2014, 05:29

SR4759

You must like scratched and damaged dies.

quote:
Originally posted by JGRaider:
Cleaning brass and primer pockets are both a waste of time.

23 March 2014, 23:23

Atkinson

JGR,
Now you gone and dunnit, the techs are after you!

IMO your spot on correct.

So the color of brass scratches dies, I think not, providing one "wipes brass off", as opposed to cleaning (polishing) it to shiny new...'

The other thing is, most folks I have observed cleaned brass bright and shiny after they resized it and have seen this question pop up many times on AR..getting walnut stuff out of the primer pockets and running a walnut shell up in the die could be worse than collected crud on a case.

I wipe brass clean, then lube it, then resize..

If I clean it in my viberating cleaner, which is seldom, I only clean it with a short one hour or perhaps two if I forget run, I do not polish it as that can be counter productive to feed and function, contrary to common belief. Over polishing could lead to thinner case walls it seems, but maybe not, don't really know.

I have to agree "cleaning brass" is a waste of time and mostly entertainment to those who really get into it the handloading thing, and it disapears as the hair gets whiter....It rates with inside neck reaming, leveling primer pocket depth with a cutter, and several other practices, that entertain but have little or nothing to do with the "hunting rifle", and perhaps are a practice to be regulated to the bench rest camp, and that in itself is a big ole maybe. Some of those guys pay less attention to reloading a case than anyone else.

I suggest that there is a differnce in "cleaning brass" and "polishing brass" that leads to confusion perhaps, and that may well be the determining factor in this whole thread..

Deltrim mentions proud primers..I agree with him...but I clean my primer pockets with a rounded small screwdriver or wire RCBS brush, whichever is close at the time. I observe each primed case and if in doubt I set it on a peice of cut glass on my loading bench.

Just my two cents, and my practice but to each his own..

25 March 2014, 07:35

JGRaider

Agree with you Ray. I wipe off the brass as well, just don't bother tumbling or polishing...waste of time. I also don't clean primer pockets as, over the last 25 years I've seen no evidence that it helps accuracy at all, and never had a primer detonate when it wasn't supposed to.

26 March 2014, 08:09

Tony Gable

Get a big bottle of catsup and mix them up in a big bowl and let them set for a couple hours and rinse off anf put them in a tumbler.

26 March 2014, 09:03

The Senator

Well gang thank you all for your input into my question of cleaning brass. I would love to have you all together with a good glass of Jameson's Irish Whiskey at some hunting camp.
What a story that would make. Thank you for your time and reply's! Thanks again and remember "It's nice to know that when you help someone up a hill your're a little nearer the top yourself".
The Senator

28 March 2014, 23:34

Jerry Liles

I do agree that brass doesn't need to be shiny, but I don't agree that it needn't be cleaned, and thoroughly at that. Cleaning saves wear and tear on dies, removes incipient corrosion, allows better inspection of the case, and insures that you aren't sending erosive crud through the barrel at high speed when you pull the trigger. Running a batch through a tumbler for 30 minutes to clean before sizing (and again after wards to remove sizing lube if used) is no burden. Complaints about granules of corn cob or walnut stuck in the flash hole are specious. Do you really think the primer is going to even notice the loosely stuck granule or fail to efficiently ignite the powder? It won't make a difference. If it bugs you just do what I do and poke it out with a toothpick when you inspect the case before loading. You do inspect the case don't you? We depend on the case to contain 10 to 70,000psi. Treat it with respect.

Jerry Liles

04 April 2014, 00:09

Atkinson

Lot of "what ifs" here..I have never had a high primer on a case because the primer pocket wasn't cleaned..it would have to get pretty thick in there. If I got a high primer I'd probably toss the case at inspection. I look at the primer pocket and have scraped a few them at times with a S&W rounded screwdriver..I viberate case clean, it takes about an hour or two as opposed to 24 or more hours to shiney pretty..

The old target shooters and bench resters did and do things a lot different than todays gun scribes suggest..Those old boy reload at the bench and the cases look pretty grim and been reloaded a thousand times and annealed half that many times I would guess, the powder is scoped out of a old 1940s can and dumped in the case with a cut off case with soldered on peice of welding rod for a handle, the primers are put in with all sorts of handmade gimmicks, including a 3 pound hammer in a machined block..then they shoot these tee tiny little groups at umpteen thousand yards, take a snort of whiskey or drink a beer while the barrel cools and yell at willie down the line for a 15 minute conversation that usually funny as hell...I think the age limit btw is around 70 years old or your considered stupid!!

I have to add they are sure entertaining and fun to be around..

09 April 2014, 20:06

243winxb

Try some Citric Acid

10 April 2014, 01:01

wasbeeman

My first step in reloading is to wipe the case down with a soft cloth as I eyeball it for splits and such. After I've gone through my various steps in reloading, I want my brass to be clean, but I'm of the school of thought that shiny brass isn't more accurate nor does it kill stuff deader.
I don't understand these folks that talk about wearing out a set of dies. I've got dies that are 50yo that aren't worn out.

10 April 2014, 17:07

Jiri

For really dirty brass (after resizing and depriming):

First I put into dishwasher on the "sticks" neck down. It will clean them but put some blue style oxide color on it. Then I run it through ultrasonic cleaner with solution for brass. It will change color to "brass" and remove rests of dirt. Without prior cleaning in dishwasher, it will take a very long time in ultrasonic to clean all the mess in primer pockets or so in really dirty brass.

After ultrasonic, I wash wish fresh water, dry and put to vibration tumbler with corn media and polish. The result is better than new brass, perfectly clean.

10 April 2014, 19:05

ted thorn

After many attempts with the Hornady 2L ultrasonic I quit

It is now for sale.... make a reasonable offer

13 April 2014, 18:17

Wstrnhuntr

Yea, cleaning brass is a pita. You have to throw it in the tumbler, plug it in and then walk away for a couple of hours..

On the other hand, filthy brass may not damage hardened dies, but a rifles chamber isnt hardened and after a dozen or so of said filthy brass is run through it can get gummed up, scratched, oil deposits, etc.

Personaly I will take the clean brass for throwing it in the tumbler for a couple hours..

I agree with the gentleman who stated, "we clean our rifles after shooting". That brass goes in the cleaned rifle! A#1 reason for cleaning your brass..

13 April 2014, 21:36

wasbeeman

What the hell are you people doing to your ammo that it gets "filthy"? There is a long way to go between discoloured and filthy.

13 April 2014, 23:11

ted thorn

My wife runs thousands of rounds through her AR rifles each year and my job is simple

Pick up the empty
Load the empty
Repeat

The AR makes very clean brass dirty but clean brass is 10X easier to see fly through the air and find on the ground.....yes we occasionally use a catching apparatus

As far as turn bolts.....it's my time and my hobby.....I clean and it is the least labor intense aspect of the loading chore

14 April 2014, 04:27

Shof

After I shoot and collect the brass, I simply lube it, size/deprime it and throw it in a tumbler overnight. That cleans it enough that it's nice and shiny and loads easily.

I mean, how much effort does it take to toss it into a tumbler, turn it on and walk away????

14 April 2014, 12:21

PaulH

quote:
Originally posted by Tony Gable:
Get a big bottle of catsup and mix them up in a big bowl and let them set for a couple hours and rinse off anf put them in a tumbler.

Did you say catsup?

14 April 2014, 18:22

airgun1

Well I will add to the fray.

I use Lyman Green Corn Cob media and put fired brass in it for 30 mins to an hour. I then lube the necks, then the cases then resize.

I then give a good wipe off of the outside and then wipe the inside of the neck. I clean the primer pockets at this time with the RCBS wire brush primer pocket cleaner. I guess they would be fine to load and shoot at this time, but I then give them 30 mins to an hour in the tumbler with Lyman Green Corn Cob.

I really like the Lyman Green Corn Cob as it lasts a very long time and seems to get better with age. I tumble to get impended crud off of the cases before resizing and then to get the lube off.