whats the best way to remove the military crimp in primer pockets?
thank ya

As a Highpower competitor, I shoot large quantities of 223 (and in the past, 308) ammo, mostly with LC brass. As a result, I've had cause to use several of the methods of removing the primer crimps.

Here's my experiences.
Lyman or any other hand cutter - time consuming, and the cuts tended to come out inconsistent. Only benefit is that they're cheap and don't take up much room on your bench.

RCBS Swager - POS. I've got a friend that says you need to use washers to take up some of the slack in the unit. I got rid of mine after not much time. Cheap, but for me, not even worth that.

Dillon - best. Quickest. Most consistent. But much more costly. I justified the $70 cost (at that time) with the time savings - actual time saved plus not having to go back and redo insufficient cuts.

Lyman sells a reamer for about $15 that I chuck in a hand drill and this seems to be the easiest way. For about $25 RCBS sells a primer pocket swager that you use in the press but it takes alot longer to do it this way.

hello:
I've got the Dillon. Cost a bit, but you can't beat it if you have lot's of cases to do. If memory serves me correctly, the owner of Dillon is a machine gun shooter and all their equipment is geared for quantity production.
Grizz

Buy a crimp remover...

This one is definately not OSHA approved, but if I have a number of them to do I chuck a countersink bit into a bench top drill press and use it at slowest speed. Adjust the table so you can rest your hands on it and just raise up the brass into the countersink. You can see what you are doing and you won't go too deep this way. Just be careful around the turning countersink but if you slow the drill press down it isn't much of a hazard to worry about.



If I only need to do a dozen or two I'll usually just do them by hand.

That little deburring tool from the RCBS-kit works as well.

Buy the Dillon Super Swage 600 $77.95
I have used several other manufacture types including an countersink in a drill press but the Dillon works the best IMHO.

http://dillonprecision.com/template/p.cfm?maj=15&min=0&dyn=1&

thanks for the help fellows.ive got a deburring tool. ill go get a reamer and see which one works best.if that dont work ill sell the wifes car and get a dillon.

What I did was to take an old pencil sharpener and take it apart, saving the stand and the cranky handle. I secured a fine-threaded stud of the right length (about 2-1/2") and screwed a drill chuck onto it. The stud went back through the sharpener stand and the cranky handle got screwed onto the other threaded end of the stud. I took up any slack with washers. The base was then screwed to a piece of wood big enough to allow it to be clamped to my reloadin' table and I had myself a primer pocket beveler when I chucked a 45-degree chamfer tool into the chuck. Use a good chamfer tool; the kind available at Sears for about $8 and having 6 or 7 cutting surfaces. Don't waste your time with one of those 2-blade, black oxide pieces of crap for wood. I can remove the crimp in about 3-4 revolutions-- takes just seconds and works like shit through a tin horn. Also works very well for cleaning the crusty stuff out of the primer pocket. I took a tap and ground it to just fit inside the pocket. Cleans 'em out so that they shine! The ones you buy from the reloading equipment companies don't stay sharp 'cause they ain't hard enough. My ground-off tap sure is.

In absolute desperation, a case chamfering tool will work.

Hey DJ I like the bolt idea!

Thanks!

You're all wrong. The best way to remove it is to BUY the brass from some place like Midway with the crip ALREADY REMOVED.

Other than this, the best was is to swage it out with something like RCBS or Lee equipment.

Depends on how many you want to do. I have several hungry little 5.56 and .223 chambers to feed so I got one of the powered reamers from Doyle Gracey. Did about 5,000 last year. Zip, zap, zoom.

I have used the RCBS swager set up in the past. I always ended up bending the swwager assembly, but someone with more manual dexterity would probably do fine with it.

If you don't have too many to do I would recommend chucking the Lyman unit in the drill as noted above by my esteemed colleague.

I don't have any experience with the Dillon unit, so won't venture an opinion on it.

JCN

Drill press and a chamfering tool. I put a bolt just under neck ID in a vise directly under the the chuck, chuck the tool, and set the quill stop. Every crimp gets removed to the same depth, only takes a few seconds a case, and I did not have to buy anything I did not have.