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need help with a lyman 450 lube/sizer

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20 June 2011, 02:36
reloaderman
need help with a lyman 450 lube/sizer
I just picked up this lube/sizer ( never having one before ) and I've just got a set of size .309 die & top punch. How do I get the old (357) die out and my 309 die in ? I figured out the top punch, but the sizing die doesn't want to come out ! I've unscrewed the hex nut that retains it, but don't know what to do next.
I'd like to get a copy of "how to use this sizer/lube thing", I couldn't find anything at the Lyman site.
Thanks for any help
Reloaderman


Shovel ready.....
but hangin' on
20 June 2011, 04:47
Alberta Canuck
quote:
Originally posted by reloaderman:
I just picked up this lube/sizer ( never having one before ) and I've just got a set of size .309 die & top punch. How do I get the old (357) die out and my 309 die in ? I figured out the top punch, but the sizing die doesn't want to come out ! I've unscrewed the hex nut that retains it, but don't know what to do next.
I'd like to get a copy of "how to use this sizer/lube thing", I couldn't find anything at the Lyman site.
Thanks for any help
Reloaderman



See the "U"shaped loop that pushes the ejector rod up when you remove bullets from the die?

Put something like a .44 or .45 calibre bullet inside the bottom of that loop so that when you move it up like you are going to remove a sized bullet from the die, it will contact the bottom of the die. Just apply pressure, and it will start forcing the die out of the tool. (First, Make sure you have the Hex nut completely removed from the tool at the top of the die.)

if it doesn't move the die enough to make it amenable to pulling out the rest of the way with your fingers, then put a spacer between the inside of the loop and the bullet, then pull it up again.


My country gal's just a moonshiner's daughter, but I love her still.

20 June 2011, 05:09
SmokinJ
I screw the dept adjustment threaded tube up and I use the head of the wrench mine came with to put in that bottom hoop of metal the previous poster just mentioned. That pushed the die out plenty far enough for me. Then put the nut on your new die and insert it in the machine. Thread carefully as most those have very very fine threads which you can cross thread. Don't over tighten.
20 June 2011, 07:45
plainsman456
Funny me I just use a pair of pliers.
Didn't know about a wrench or putting something under the lifter thingie.
Just goes to show you you never quit learning stuff.
20 June 2011, 20:51
MT Gianni
If it has not seen recent use you may need to use some heat on it. Hair dryer works good.
20 June 2011, 22:53
SmokinJ
Here's another little trick for you. When you got to put your die in the machine, place the wrench over the nut after insertion, and without a nose punch is the ram, bring the ram down on the nut. This squares it up to the threads. With a wee little bit of pressure on the ram start tightening the nuts. When it has taken a couple threads you can raise the ram or if you wish finish tightening the nut with it down. This is what I've been doing for years.
21 June 2011, 00:55
Alberta Canuck
quote:
Originally posted by SmokinJ:
Here's another little trick for you. When you got to put your die in the machine, place the wrench over the nut after insertion, and without a nose punch is the ram, bring the ram down on the nut. This squares it up to the threads. With a wee little bit of pressure on the ram start tightening the nuts. When it has taken a couple threads you can raise the ram or if you wish finish tightening the nut with it down. This is what I've been doing for years.



Good tip, Smokin J -

I do that too. Without squaring the nut with the press thread, and with those very fine threads, it is really easy to end up some day cross-threading the nut into the tool, which can turn into a real PITA.

Good thinking ahead there, guy....!!


My country gal's just a moonshiner's daughter, but I love her still.

21 June 2011, 09:12
swheeler
quote:
Originally posted by SmokinJ:
Here's another little trick for you. When you got to put your die in the machine, place the wrench over the nut after insertion, and without a nose punch is the ram, bring the ram down on the nut. This squares it up to the threads. With a wee little bit of pressure on the ram start tightening the nuts. When it has taken a couple threads you can raise the ram or if you wish finish tightening the nut with it down. This is what I've been doing for years.


Yep good point Joe, that's the way I've done it for decades!
21 June 2011, 11:42
carpetman1
When I saw the title of the thread, I figured the question would be how to keep lube off the base of the bullet. If you are new to using a Lyman or RCBS you'll probably get lube on the base. The secret is keep some pressure on the bullet (not handle bending pressure, but firm pressure when you operate the lube ratchet (or toggle on newere RCBS). Just barely touch the lube feed device and you may not need to on every bullet.
21 June 2011, 18:31
swheeler
Reloaderman; I will give you a better tip than any given so far, SELL THE LYMAN 450 and buy a Saeco!
21 June 2011, 20:22
SmokinJ
Carpetmans tip on keeping lube off the base is a good one. In addition to that I concave the face of the piston in the size plus I drill a small bleed hole through it's length. Then I cut two notches on the top of the ram piston's head that pushed that die piston up to push out the bullet. Here's how it then works. On that concave recess you leave a rim, say about 3/32ths of an inch. This too depends on the caliber of the sizer. Much smaller ones take less. Okay...this rim seals on the bullet base better then. No it doesn't indent the bullet base either. Now if any lube sneaks under the base it goes down the bleed hole and pretty much stays off the base. At least the it does not accumulate to a big blob of lube atop the piston face. This is described, with pictures, in the NRA Cast Bullet Book.
21 June 2011, 23:51
swheeler
quote:
Originally posted by SmokinJ:
Carpetmans tip on keeping lube off the base is a good one. In addition to that I concave the face of the piston in the size plus I drill a small bleed hole through it's length. Then I cut two notches on the top of the ram piston's head that pushed that die piston up to push out the bullet. Here's how it then works. On that concave recess you leave a rim, say about 3/32ths of an inch. This too depends on the caliber of the sizer. Much smaller ones take less. Okay...this rim seals on the bullet base better then. No it doesn't indent the bullet base either. Now if any lube sneaks under the base it goes down the bleed hole and pretty much stays off the base. At least the it does not accumulate to a big blob of lube atop the piston face. This is described, with pictures, in the NRA Cast Bullet Book.


Ah Ha, that must be the SECRET to all those one hole groups at high velocity!!! well that and a "one hole" keyboard Big Grin
22 June 2011, 03:05
SmokinJ
quote:
Originally posted by swheeler:
quote:
Originally posted by SmokinJ:
Carpetmans tip on keeping lube off the base is a good one. In addition to that I concave the face of the piston in the size plus I drill a small bleed hole through it's length. Then I cut two notches on the top of the ram piston's head that pushed that die piston up to push out the bullet. Here's how it then works. On that concave recess you leave a rim, say about 3/32ths of an inch. This too depends on the caliber of the sizer. Much smaller ones take less. Okay...this rim seals on the bullet base better then. No it doesn't indent the bullet base either. Now if any lube sneaks under the base it goes down the bleed hole and pretty much stays off the base. At least the it does not accumulate to a big blob of lube atop the piston face. This is described, with pictures, in the NRA Cast Bullet Book.


Ah Ha, that must be the SECRET to all those one hole groups at high velocity!!! well that and a "one hole" keyboard Big Grin


Yup, sure it, you don't have a glob of unbalanced lube on the bases!! tu2
26 June 2011, 02:46
swheeler
quote:
Originally posted by SmokinJ:
quote:
Originally posted by swheeler:
quote:
Originally posted by SmokinJ:
Carpetmans tip on keeping lube off the base is a good one. In addition to that I concave the face of the piston in the size plus I drill a small bleed hole through it's length. Then I cut two notches on the top of the ram piston's head that pushed that die piston up to push out the bullet. Here's how it then works. On that concave recess you leave a rim, say about 3/32ths of an inch. This too depends on the caliber of the sizer. Much smaller ones take less. Okay...this rim seals on the bullet base better then. No it doesn't indent the bullet base either. Now if any lube sneaks under the base it goes down the bleed hole and pretty much stays off the base. At least the it does not accumulate to a big blob of lube atop the piston face. This is described, with pictures, in the NRA Cast Bullet Book.


Ah Ha, that must be the SECRET to all those one hole groups at high velocity!!! well that and a "one hole" keyboard Big Grin


Yup, sure it, you don't have a glob of unbalanced lube on the bases!! tu2


Keep that keyboard sighted in for those "one holers" One Hole Joe! Big Grin
27 June 2011, 09:04
SmokinJ
You betcha scatter gun group Scot!!! rotflmo
27 June 2011, 09:11
swheeler
EVERY GUN I OWN SHOOTS ONE HOLE GROUPS, HONEST!!!! 91/large-Male-proboscis-monkey1.jpg[/IMG]


jumping
27 June 2011, 09:17
swheeler
Only a few of us know "the secret"

It does too shoot one hole groups at velocity!!!!!!!!!!!
29 June 2011, 00:40
reloaderman
That did the trick ! Thanks..
I got the 309 sizer set up and was able to size & lube 20 rounds to try. Using some primers I got at a garage sale (1000 FOR $1.00) I put together some "test" loads. All worked very well with1" groups at 50yd and 3" groups at 100yds.
I think I'm in for some fun with this cast bullet thing ! WOOHOO!

quote:

See the "U"shaped loop that pushes the ejector rod up when you remove bullets from the die?

Put something like a .44 or .45 calibre bullet inside the bottom of that loop so that when you move it up like you are going to remove a sized bullet from the die, it will contact the bottom of the die. Just apply pressure, and it will start forcing the die out of the tool. (First, Make sure you have the Hex nut completely removed from the tool at the top of the die.)

if it doesn't move the die enough to make it amenable to pulling out the rest of the way with your fingers, then put a spacer between the inside of the loop and the bullet, then pull it up again.



Shovel ready.....
but hangin' on