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Scope mount question

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14 March 2006, 08:50
Jim_ B.
Scope mount question
I submitted this question to Leupold last week and haven't heard anything back from them . I have a customized Mauser 98 I want to mount a straight tube (30mm) scope on the gun. I'm using Warne med. quick detachable rings. The span from ring to ring is pretty long and it turns out the front ring is gripping the tube right where the obj. lense is oriented within the tube. I was advised to tighten the ring screws to 30 in./lb. I'm worried about the obj. lense during recoil. The gun is chambered to .358 Norma and is fairly light. The scope is mounted as far forward as possible. I do not want to use extension rings and will use a different scope and forget about the straight tube deal all together if need be. I am considering this set-up for a dangerous game hunt. What do you guys thinkA? Yea or Nay???






14 March 2006, 22:00
butchloc
i don't think you'll have trouble, but go shoot it and see, if you do, you'll sure have something to go back to leupold with
15 March 2006, 00:12
Rick 0311
30 inch/pounds is allot for a ring screw.

My chart from Premier Reticle recommends 20 inch pounds for #8 ring screws and 15 inch pounds for #6 screws.
15 March 2006, 05:07
Big Bore Boar Hunter
I think you will be ok, on the bright side, the rings will better protect the objective from bumps. Typically I have used 25 in. lbs. for ring screws.

John
15 March 2006, 05:56
Neverflinch
I think it should be fine as any damage probably would have occured during the tightening. In theory, nothing should move once the rings are tightened, meaning recoil should not put any additional pressure on the clamping force of the rings. Maybe someone knows different but I don't see how that force could increase. By the way what "torque wrench" do you guys use to measure this force, and where do you get one?


"In case of a thunderstorm stand in the middle of the fairway and hold up a 1 iron, not even God can hit a 1 iron"............Lee Trevino.
15 March 2006, 07:16
Rick 0311
I use a Sekonk adjustable inch pound torque wrench for smaller screws because it’s shaped just like a regular screw driver and doesn’t have the leverage that T-Handle or socket wrench types have.

Typically, the little L-Shaped wrenches that come with the mounts/rings work well because you can only apply so much torque with your fingers before it hurts like hell! Smiler That is of course if you use the long leg down into the screw head and use the short leg to turn with. Do it the other way and you can apply allot more force due to the increased leverage.

It’s been my experience that properly fitted rings don’t need to be tightened beyond snug. You pretty much have to discover what “snug†is for your scope/rings/rifle on your own. If the scope moves, then you ain’t quite there yet.

You can buy inch/pound torque wrenches at Brownell’s, Midway, or any good machine shop supply house. Just be sure to specify “INCH/POUNDSâ€...not “FOOT/POUNDS!â€
15 March 2006, 07:24
Jim_ B.
quote:
Originally posted by Big Bore Boar Hunter:
I think you will be ok, on the bright side, the rings will better protect the objective from bumps. Typically I have used 25 in. lbs. for ring screws.

John


Thanks for the input!! 30 in/lb as per Warne???
21 March 2006, 09:01
<cobra44>
No one mentioned them but you could get a set of offset mount rings that will allow aproximately 1 inc. of off set, they are commonaly used to move a scope fwd. or back for those special shooters that have trouble getting a full picture in the scope. may not be to your liking but they might solve the problem.
25 March 2006, 19:24
LJS
Warne makes extension bases that will enable you to move that front ring back on the scope. It really does not interfere with loading or unloading and gets you off that front lens.