I need a gun safe. My gun cabinet does not have enough capacity or security. I've seen gun safes that go from $100's to over $10k.

What features should I be looking for in picking a safe. What brands are recommended? I don't want to get junk, but I don't want to spend money that could otherwise be put toward another gun or a hunting trip.

Thanks,
Dave

Cannon makes a good series, I have the patriat.
They have an awsome warranty also.
Look for concealed hinges, heavy bolts, door seals,fire rating,and weight.
They should be something a couple of crooks cant pick up and walk off with.

Be sure to bolt it down also.


Cal30

quote:

capacity

Capacity is always the issue. None of us are content to pass on a good deal on another rifle. In addition it is a good place for your cameras, spotting scope, and other valuables.
At best a safe is a device to slow down a thief. If he has enough time he can get into any of them.
Just make sure it is heavy enough it can't be pried open in less than an hour or two.

Let me toss in the caveat that the 600 lb safe you pick up at the local discount whatever is NOT the sort of item you're going to move about on a refrigerator hand-truck.

We were bringing a Cannon off the loading ramp of a commercial van with a heavy duty hand-truck, pneumatic tires. As we rolled over the edge of the truck bed and onto the ramp the tires buckled and the safe jumped off the ramp and into the gravel drive.

No damage to the safe, which was wrapped and in a shipping box, gravel drive proved a soft landing.

BUT, it was entirely out of control and could have landed on someone.

Moving one off a truck is pretty much a fork lift operation.

or a matter of skilled personal. I have seen 3 guys moving my 1000 lbs safe with only a few special planks with wheels. I could not believe my eyes. I did move my 400 lbs fire resistant personal safe alone with one of these tools.

Edmond
The trucking firm dropped my safe in the drive way. It's 75 or so feet from the drive to the front door, then up 4 inches, across the porch, up 8 or 9 inches. Forgot to mention the safe weighed 1350 pounds empty.
I call the guys who moved my house goods to see if they had any experience doing this sort of thing. They replied in the affirmative, but give them a day or two.
Four black guys showed up, looked like the left side of the Dallas Cowboys line. Twenty minutes latter the safe was in place and they were headed home.
One guy lifted the safe off the porch and across the threshhold.
If there's ever a fight I want these guys on my side.

Jim

If you really want to sleep well when you're out of town, get a TL15 or TL30 rated jewelry safe.

quote:

Originally posted by fla3006:
If you really want to sleep well when you're out of town, get a TL15 or TL30 rated jewelry safe.

Nooooooooooo . . . that's what INSURANCE is all about!

Just stroll into a reputable dealer who sells gun safes and has some selection. Have a look at options and talk to the sales rep.

It's not rocket science.

The one CostCo was selling is nice, Cannon. But it's full now and I need a second.

-- Not like I'm complaining . . . *S*

Having taken a garden variety 400-pound safe down a flight of stairs to the man cave, I would never do it again. Paying the extra bucks to have the pros place your safe is money very well spent.

quote:

45-70 Govt.: Nooooooooooo . . . that's what INSURANCE is all about!

Insurance will never cover the value of family heirlooms or one-of-a-kind collector pieces.
A gun safe will 95% of the time, a TL30 safe will 99.9% of the time: http://www.ismsafes.com/

quote:

Originally posted by Edmond:
or a matter of skilled personal. I have seen 3 guys moving my 1000 lbs safe with only a few special planks with wheels. I could not believe my eyes. I did move my 400 lbs fire resistant personal safe alone with one of these tools.

Edmond,

Its amazing what can be moved with vary basic tools such as levers.

I've not moved a safe, but did help somebody move some large work shop machinery...I thought they were crazy to try, but once I understood what they were doing, it worked a charm.

This guy takes it to a whole different level though..

Regards,

Pete

I too am starting to look for a gun safe to secure my guns. What do I need to look for as far as fire rating? It will be stored in my garage/basement. I couldn't seem to find much info on the web regarding fire ratings and consistency among safe manufacturers. Budget is up to 1500ish, but I'm looking for quality. I have seen different fire ratings from different manufacturers. What gives?

Any help would be appreciated.

If you want a bargain on a gun safe, look on craigslist.org in your area, usually lots of good used safes at good prices, at least in my area.

Something to consider.

A basic safe, a somewhat redundant alarm system, and some common sense will protect your firearms 99% of the time. This is against the 'kick-your-door-in-grab-shit-and-go' types. If you are worried about the pros then get the 10K+ safes backed up with video, sophisticated alarm system, and tear gas. But then the real pros (or bad guys) can defeat this stuff by holding a gun against your kids head to make you surrender the stuff (then shoot all of you anyways).

I say this based on 34 years of LEO experience. I have never, repeat never, taken or investigated a sucessful residential B&E report on anybody that had a decent alarm system on their homes and who didn't have a whole bunch of cash on hand that the IRS didn't/couldn't know about.

So if you aren't into drug or gambling cash, then a basic gun safe, a reasonable alarm system, and keeping an eye on who you allow in your home should do.

It also helps to be a 'serious' male anywhere within your property. I had some issues with some neighborhood teens in years gone by and made it known that I am a man of respect. They give me wide berth now and we all get along.

One thing I did with my safe is I put a thin plywood cover on the inside of the door and carpeted it. Then I put cup hangers on it with vinyl to hang all my hand guns. This gave me more room inside the safe for other thing if you have shelves.

A quick observation, when choosing a gun safe, keep in mind the weight / location or positioning of the safe with respect to your home's construction.

If the gun safe is going to be placed upon a reinforced concrete ground bearing slab, I do not forsee structural issues for the 'normal domestic gun owner'. I doubt there would be too much of a problem with loading etc, if the concrete slab was suspended or on an upper storey (assuming 175 - 200mm plus deep slab and average domestic type floor / beam spans).

However, if your home is constructed with timber joists and floorboards, like the majority of homes in the UK, then you need to be aware.

I certanly would n't put the type of retail or factory fire resistant safes in a typical UK home without assessing the load bearing capacity and deflection of the timber floor.

Some years ago, an Italian manufactured steel safe - 3mm plate steel, bank vault type (25mm diameter pins, 5 No.) front door locking etc were advertised. Depending upon capacity, these were circa 150 - 400kg in weight. If I remember correctly, the cheapest of these were around £800.

Graffunder. There is no substitute...

Go to www.graffundersafes.com and click on Gallery on the left side of the screen; click on Security on Sale video; see two low-down, thievin' trash break into a garden variety safe in about two minutes...

However big a safe you think you need, just get one twice as big.

Or if you move a lot get 2 smaller safes.

There is a "dolly" I think Wesco is the brand that is designed to move up to a 1200lb object. It has a second set of wheels that lever out so you do not have to support the safe when wheeling it around.
Makes moving a 1000 lb safe as easy a dancing with a skinny woman.

Also if you get several, 10 or so, pieces of steel concuit a little longer than the floor of you safe you can walk it all over the house.

Use 3 pieces of 1/2" plywood 4 to 5 feet by 3 feet to protect the carpet. Put pieces of carpet under the plywood to protect wood and linoleum floors.

Weat thick gloves and watch the fingers.

When in doubt move the WIFES furniture out of the way BEFORE you bang the safe into it.

Have a look at rolled corners rather then welded corners. And you want your side and back walls 1/4 to 3/8th inch thick, same thing for the top and bottom.

Jim

Does anyone have any information about the Liberty Safes that Cabelas sells? I can't seem to find out the basic information such as number of pins, ...

I thought I was going to buy a Fort Knox, but the local vendor is making me rethink that decision.

One word I would mention here, based on my own bitter experience, is to STAY AWAY FROM THE ELECTRONIC LOCKS- period! I have one about 20-25 years old by a now defunct mfr that will not open - the lock mechanism died and to date, no one has been able to open without totally destroying the safe. I wanted to have it opened and then replace the lock with a mechanical lock but to date; no locksmith has been able or willing to do so. Several have offered to 'peel' it open - major bucks plus a totally destroyed safe.
Believe me, when I replace it it will be with a safe with a conventional lock.