I am working on a Remington 700 project and it has been a while since I barreled a Rem 700. I am trying to come up to speed on the barrel tenon dimensions. This drawing I found on the internet is one of many that seem to have different dimensions. The dimension that I am specifically looking for is the .883 listed in the drawing. What is the nominal dimension of a Remington 700 tenon without the recoil lug. Example for the number listed in the drawing of .883 – a standard recoil lug of .1875 = .6955”.

Is .6955 the standard tenon length without the recoil lug? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I do the tenon .875 (when I use the factory lug) That way the head of the go gauge is standing proud of the barrel face. When useing a thicker lug I leave the tenon what ever length it takes to leave the go gauge proud. This make is a bit easier to measure the headspace.

Well, yes. .883 - .187 = .696. That is close for a "canned" figure. But if you are going to the trouble of fitting a barrel, why not take the actual measurements directly from the receiver and run with those.

Westpack,

That is a good point, I will do that but that leaves a different question. What should the clearance between the front of the locking lugs and the back face of the tenon be?

quote:

Originally posted by Brad Hinn:
What should the clearance between the front of the locking lugs and the back face of the tenon be?

With the bolt pressing "against" the lugs, I prefer keeping it around .005. Same with the bolt nose. If you set it for .008 clearance, you will lose approximately .003 when you tighten the barrel. That will leave you .005. You can have more of a gap if you would like between the lugs and the breech, but I prefer as tight of a seal as possible without actually making contact with any part of the bolt. For this reason, when I blueprint a 700, I true the bolt nose diameter and the front of the lugs. And I prefer setting the headspace so that the chambered round holds the bolt back against the lugs.

Thanks, that is really helpful!

What type of extractor are you using?

I am using the stock remington extractor.

Stock extractor, That is a smart move.

I never understood the logic of putting a sako style on a remington. The stock extractor seems to work fine the best I can tell.

It's because one stock extractor out of a million rifles failed one day after the internet was invented and it spread like wild fire.

Sako extractor is fine but it's just one more bell and whistle to add. You'd think that for a company that supplies rifles to the leading Sniper units in the world that if they found a flaw they would change it. They haven't changed it yet so...

quote:

Originally posted by kcstott:
Sako extractor is fine but it's just one more bell and whistle to add. You'd think that for a company that supplies rifles to the leading Sniper units in the world that if they found a flaw they would change it. They haven't changed it yet so...

No need to put them down. They serve a necessary purpose. Sako and M16 style extractors come in handy when the standard extractor will no longer work as when converting a standard 700 action into a magnum action, or, for giving the older 600-720 series rifles a new life. When installed correctly, and I do mean correctly, they work extremely well.

I've personally had TWO remington extractors fail.. you know what I did about it? replaced them with factory extractors.

In either case the rifle had a decade of heavy use on it before the failure and in one rifle it was directly to a "K" type case head split

quote:

Originally posted by Westpac:

quote:

Originally posted by kcstott:
Sako extractor is fine but it's just one more bell and whistle to add. You'd think that for a company that supplies rifles to the leading Sniper units in the world that if they found a flaw they would change it. They haven't changed it yet so...

No need to put them down. They serve a necessary purpose. Sako and M16 style extractors come in handy when the standard extractor will no longer work as when converting a standard 700 action into a magnum action, or, for giving the older 600-720 series rifles a new life. When installed correctly, and I do mean correctly, they work extremely well.

Westpac that is a different situation and I agree in those cases just to be clear.

What I should have said in my first post was that there is no reason to change a stock extractor that is working fine. Caliber change? sure, Old rifle with poor parts availability? sure, But I've seen some guys Pick up a brand new rifle and take it to their smith without one round being fired to have a sako extractor installed. That is where I feel it is complete over kill.

I ALWAYS mike the front of the receiver to the bolt lug and add that measurement to the one taken from the lug itself and go with that combined and deduct .005 and thread to that spec. It is usually .885 or so as seen in the various manuals but , to be sure?? Measure 3-4 times and machine once.
Aloha, Mark