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In reading around here I think stumbled on, if remembering correctly, mention of Lock-Tite Black Max adhesive for applying sight bases and bands. So, is it gunsmithedly appropriate and strong sufficient to hold, say, banded ramp, swivel band, and island rear? Need to know: .375. Along with using Black Max or similar adhesive, can the applied bands and saddle be successfully removed with heat and not mar the bluing below? I understand the correct form is solder and have done a few, but have yet to use chemical fastening. Thanks for, Stephen | ||
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I use it, for various reasons, including temp sights .. i was SHOCKED at how durable the stuff was, and it has happened repeatedly that i have to get the metal hotter than I would have thought. ... btw, if you remove with heat, do it OUTSIDE with a strong wind - the only thing i would question would be the swivel band .. that takes a good deal of mechanical load and forces. i needed a "safari" rifle ready for a hunt, and used it on all three, then hit it with flat black paint ... it all came off fine when I got around to finishing the rifle #dumptrump opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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I am not familiar with Black Max but an industrial glue we would get in Australia would do the job. Jeffe mentioned the sling swivel but if it is barrel band that goes full around the barrel then a glue job will be extremely strong. With an industrial glue you would have problems I think if you removed things and the finish. There is a chemical and from memory the name si something like DiChloro Ethane that will attack epoxy but not the real good ones that have been heat cured or even if not heat cured but have been curing for 6 or 12 months. Even epoxy like Devcon takes months to fully cure. For example mix up Devcon and say after it has cured for 3 days or so and drop into the Di Chloro Ethane and it will fall apart over an hour or so. Leave the same Devcon sit there for 6 months and the Di Chloro will just barely mark it. As a side note, a general rule with expoxy is the real good stuff is never a 50/50 mix and never quick curing like the 5 minute stuff etc. | |||
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Is Black Max more aggressive than JB Weld? ___________________ Just Remember, We ALL Told You So. | |||
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I have hear of JB Weld on the forums. Is it a glue or a filler like Devcon etc. | |||
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A two part epoxy that is used to bond metal. I have not seen any test that JB Weld has failed. But... ___________________ Just Remember, We ALL Told You So. | |||
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RIP on Big Bores uses it all the time for scope mounts etc. If it is used to bond metal then a glue. Stuff like Devcon is not a good glue. The industrial one used in Australia I referred to from Ciba-Geigy is fairly liquid like and when things are warmed up the bond is best as pores in the metal expand and the glue runs well. After it has cured for a day or so it is ten heat cured in boiling water. | |||
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Most banded front ramps are friction fit (and maybe a little heat for good measure. So I would have no qualms at all about using lock tite for banded anything. Island base is another thing altogether. The barrel vibrates pretty intensely when it is fired. I once glued on a rear sight to test POI, and I was surprised how nicely it jumped off when I fired the rifle. It wasn't a very heavy caliber. So I would not glue on an island base. I screw AND solder those on. As for the blueing, some adhesives will remove hot blue just like acid. Test first. Russ Gould - Whitworth Arms LLC BigfiveHQ.com, Large Calibers and African Safaris Doublegunhq.com, Fine English, American and German Double Rifles and Shotguns VH2Q.com, Varmint Rifles and Gear | |||
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Correct on the 50/50 and quick cure. Never use the stuff, either. S | |||
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You can test it .. I've used it .. works fine. JB weld is a different glue type, its an epoxy, rather than a roughened cyanoacetate #dumptrump opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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The chemical was Trichloroethane. Might be hard to get now as it depletes Ozone layer. We used it a lot with actions that were pulled apart that had been "glue ins" usually Rem 700s or Stillers and would just drop the action in and wold clean off epoxy still stuck to action after heating/pull apart. When you do a "glue in" it is not bedding without a release agent. The action is bedded as normal and then the action is glued to the bedding. Glue bonds are incredibly strong when you have a round section that is a top fit. I have had glue ins on Rem 700s and without the recoil lug and in 358 STAs and a real lot of shots fired and no problem. Hence why I mentioned of the sling swivel is all round the barrel. | |||
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Lord Firth, I believe you want to use a product from Loctite #638 retaining compound. Brownells #532-000-008 max. strength retaining compound. I have used this on several fine guns. Jim Wisner got me started on his recommend years back. I have tested it and found it to stronger the high force soldier. I have used it for front barrel band sight and barrel band sling swivel mount on a 338RUM GMA Mauser, at this time 650 shots and 10 years as my main hunting rifle. Parts were installed on clean bare metal, then rust blued, maybe six or more boilings and cardings. This product allows several minutes before it sets up, 24hr full cure allows easy alignment. Look up on Loctite product application sheet on line. This a great product. | |||
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I use #680 myself. Fantastic stuff. We used it at the first tool & die shop I worked at doing industrial roller repair. Welding the ends of the shafts barely loosened it, we found it was best just to turn the old parts off. No reasonable amount of heat, hammering, or pressing would get a good fit part to come off. Nathaniel Myers Myers Arms LLC nathaniel@myersarms.com www.myersarms.com Follow us on Instagram and YouTube I buy Mauser actions, parts, micrometers, tools, calipers, etc. Specifically looking for pre-WWII Mauser tools. | |||
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