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Dealing with a cracked stock
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A friend has inherited a late Model 99 Savage in .308 Winchester, which appears in good shape except for a hairline crack beginning at the tang of the receiver. Is there a way of introducing glue onto the surfaces of the crack suffidient to form a permanent bond without forcing the crack wider open?
 
Posts: 1748 | Registered: 27 March 2007Reply With Quote
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Air pressure or hydraulic pressure from a syringe coupled with the thinnest slow-cure epoxy should meet your criteria. Try to open the gap ever so slightly, then clamp.
Luck,
Stephen
 
Posts: 538 | Location: Pacific Northwet | Registered: 14 August 2010Reply With Quote
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I drill them from the inside to introduce epoxy to the deepest parts of the crack.
 
Posts: 17046 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Yes. And use the drill bit slowly driven backwards to auger the epoxy into the hole until it oozes out the entire crack. Heating the epoxy prior will also thin it making the job easier as well as speeding the set time.

quote:
Originally posted by dpcd:
I drill them from the inside to introduce epoxy to the deepest parts of the crack.
 
Posts: 3652 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Don't forget, after fixing the crack, you will need to fix what caused the crack. I use super glue, it will wick down into the entire crack. Loctite is brand I use but I don't know if that really makes any difference.
Phil
 
Posts: 352 | Location: Missouri | Registered: 09 July 2008Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by dpcd:
I drill them from the inside to introduce epoxy to the deepest parts of the crack.


I'll echo what others have said:
I drill them too before the introduction of epoxy and then re-fit the wood to the metal and maybe glass bed to keep it from happening again.

Zeke
 
Posts: 2269 | Registered: 27 October 2011Reply With Quote
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I’ve done as Tom suggested, but after forcing glue into the drilled hole, I used my air gun on the hole to pressure the glue into the crack. It doesn’t take much pressure.


Shoot Safe,
Mike

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Posts: 934 | Location: Middle Georgia | Registered: 06 February 2011Reply With Quote
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"Hot Stuff", I think I got it at brownells. will seep into smallest of cracks. Yes, you still need to fix reason it cracked.
 
Posts: 1049 | Location: oregon | Registered: 20 February 2009Reply With Quote
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I use super glue after it is degreased good as most wood that splits on an older model will have oil in the wood. It could be caused by not being fitted correctly at the factory years before. Maybe a glass bedding would help stop this from creeping more into the stock.
 
Posts: 965 | Location: Texas | Registered: 19 May 2004Reply With Quote
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What Tom(dpcd)said......

Plus....I use my old pack of Brownells syringes(various tip sizes). Not only does this inject AcraGlas very well......the taper of the syringe tip opens the crack slightly. Then clamp, of course.

edit: These syringes have solid plastic tips, of different diameters/tapers.....easily trimmed/modified. And the pressure one can exert......

Hope this helps.

Kevin
 
Posts: 409 | Location: The Republic Of Texas, USA | Registered: 28 December 2000Reply With Quote
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Acraglas works well + if the crack is large enough to require extra stability, Brownell's sells threaded dowel pieces + with the correct amount of dye in the glass one can never see the repair.


Never mistake motion for action.
 
Posts: 17357 | Location: Austin, Texas | Registered: 11 March 2013Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by NormanConquest:
Acraglas works well


yep - in fact, this is one of the few situations that i would recommend that SPECIFIC product over acragel ..

acraglas has a RATHER low viscosity, and in a bedding job, it a NIGHTMARE compared to the gel .. or, better yet, marinetex grey (the white version is flexible)


#dumptrump

opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

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Posts: 38381 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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