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1936 Mexican cocking piece.
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Has anyone out there ever made an exact copy of a 1936 Mexican Mauser cocking piece with CUT knurling on the knob? I'm not referring to rolled on (impressed) knurling. I believe that the diamonds on original military ones were cut in. Anyone know what I'm talking about?


Life itself is a gift. Live it up if you can.
 
Posts: 5097 | Location: Near Hershey PA | Registered: 12 October 2012Reply With Quote
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No.



Doug Humbarger
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Tonkin Gulf Yacht Club 72'73.
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Try to look unimportant. Your enemy might be low on ammo.
 
Posts: 8344 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
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Like this one? Picked this one up off a site for a pretty penny.



The only easy day is yesterday!
 
Posts: 2758 | Location: Northern Minnesota | Registered: 22 September 2005Reply With Quote
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These are worth more than the actions; (almost) I have a pile of Mex actions with regular cocking pieces, those having been pilfered from them long ago.
BUT, they aren't terribly hard to make.
 
Posts: 17094 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Yes sir. Cut knurling with the M stamp. Nice one.
quote:
Originally posted by Pegleg:
Like this one? Picked this one up off a site for a pretty penny.



Life itself is a gift. Live it up if you can.
 
Posts: 5097 | Location: Near Hershey PA | Registered: 12 October 2012Reply With Quote
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The later Springfield type cocking pieces are kinda unique but I prefer the earlier 1910 action, smaller thumb cuts, no large oval gas escape holes in the side. Lock time may be slightly less too.


NRA Life Member, Band of Bubbas Charter Member, PGCA, DRSS.
Shoot & hunt with vintage classics.
 
Posts: 9487 | Location: Texas Hill Country | Registered: 11 January 2002Reply With Quote
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I cheated and put one on my 1910. IMO, best of both.





--------------------------------------------

Well, other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play?
 
Posts: 6315 | Location: Mississippi | Registered: 18 May 2002Reply With Quote
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TCI. Great looking action. Any chance to get a picture of the underside of your bolt handle? Has the receiver been notched for the need bolt handle clearance. Thanks. Ron
 
Posts: 339 | Registered: 11 June 2003Reply With Quote
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A picture is no problem but I won't be back in town until Monday.


--------------------------------------------

Well, other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play?
 
Posts: 6315 | Location: Mississippi | Registered: 18 May 2002Reply With Quote
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I wouldn't miss the large vent on the left wall. But in addition to the unique cocking piece, I also like the small vent and corresponding hole in the extractor and of course the notch on the bolt next to the bolt face (not pictured).
Nice look on yours TC1.



Life itself is a gift. Live it up if you can.
 
Posts: 5097 | Location: Near Hershey PA | Registered: 12 October 2012Reply With Quote
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Terry's is the best of all worlds, like all his projects.


NRA Life Member, Band of Bubbas Charter Member, PGCA, DRSS.
Shoot & hunt with vintage classics.
 
Posts: 9487 | Location: Texas Hill Country | Registered: 11 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Well I would certainly like one for my '36.

when I had the rifle built the gunsmith turned the knurled part off "to improve the lock time." I could have killed him.

Still it is a very pretty little 7x57.
 
Posts: 531 | Location: Louisiana | Registered: 01 January 2010Reply With Quote
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Original ones are lathe knurled; certainly not hand cut if that is what you are thinking. A sharp knurling tool will produce, sharp diamonds.
If there is a demand, I will make some; cost will be $100 each.
 
Posts: 17094 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by fla3006:
The later Springfield type cocking pieces are kinda unique but I prefer the earlier 1910 action, smaller thumb cuts, no large oval gas escape holes in the side. Lock time may be slightly less too.
+1
 
Posts: 1366 | Location: Houston, TX | Registered: 10 February 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by rgg_7:
TCI. Great looking action. Any chance to get a picture of the underside of your bolt handle? Has the receiver been notched for the need bolt handle clearance. Thanks. Ron


Here ya go. Yes, the receiver is notched for the handle.




--------------------------------------------

Well, other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play?
 
Posts: 6315 | Location: Mississippi | Registered: 18 May 2002Reply With Quote
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That IS very neat AND what I hope mine looks similar to when it comes back from the builder!
 
Posts: 1991 | Location: Sinton, TX | Registered: 16 June 2013Reply With Quote
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Not hand cut, the originals appeared to have been machined with a carbide cutter using an indexing jig of some sort. Now under magnification they do appear to be impressed. My repro on the left was made using a knurling tool and the impressions were way too fine to match my original CP. Can you make them coarse just like the original?




quote:
Originally posted by dpcd:
Original ones are lathe knurled; certainly not hand cut if that is what you are thinking. A sharp knurling tool will produce, sharp diamonds.
If there is a demand, I will make some; cost will be $100 each.


Life itself is a gift. Live it up if you can.
 
Posts: 5097 | Location: Near Hershey PA | Registered: 12 October 2012Reply With Quote
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Knurling rolls come in many different diamond sizes; I would just use a coarse one; yours was made with a fine one and they didn't push it in deep enough. No, they were not hand cut in production; that would not make any sense at all. Could it be done by hand? Yes. But it would be easier to lathe knurl them; you already have it set up in the lathe anyway.
 
Posts: 17094 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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If someone with an original can measure the distance between the diamonds; that would be good. Measure the top of one to the top of the next diamond. Then I will check and see if I have a roll that size.
 
Posts: 17094 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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I went one step farther and had a lighting cut like g 33/40 ive never had anyone able to indentify without my help
 
Posts: 337 | Registered: 23 December 2006Reply With Quote
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Steve Traxson

 
Posts: 1641 | Location: Green Country Oklahoma | Registered: 03 August 2007Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by srtrax:


This one was original but I dolled it up some with a tri-angled file.


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Steve Traxson

 
Posts: 1641 | Location: Green Country Oklahoma | Registered: 03 August 2007Reply With Quote
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I measured .045 on the one above....like I said I cleaned it up and believe I kept the original spacing, but that's been awhile back. I have another one laying around but I'll have to remember where I put it, if I come across it I'll measure it.


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Steve Traxson

 
Posts: 1641 | Location: Green Country Oklahoma | Registered: 03 August 2007Reply With Quote
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Ok, that's doable.
 
Posts: 17094 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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will these fit only the small ring Mausers or will they work on a large ring bolt?
 
Posts: 1464 | Location: Southwestern Idaho, USA!!!! | Registered: 29 March 2012Reply With Quote
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Nice extra details there Steve. How did you treat the rear bridge clip slot?
quote:
Originally posted by srtrax:
quote:
Originally posted by srtrax:


This one was original but I dolled it up some with a tri-angled file.


Life itself is a gift. Live it up if you can.
 
Posts: 5097 | Location: Near Hershey PA | Registered: 12 October 2012Reply With Quote
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nod: These are small ring, but 98 design. So they work on any 98 Mauser. Don't confuse them with the small ring, 93 design, which includes the 93s to 96s, and Swede 38s. which uses a completely different design bolt, and receiver.
 
Posts: 17094 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Custombolt:
I made my own bases to fit the Tally rings...It actually covers the length of the rear bridge, slot and all.


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Steve Traxson

 
Posts: 1641 | Location: Green Country Oklahoma | Registered: 03 August 2007Reply With Quote
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Thanks for the picture. Looks well done. Nice little extra detail on the bolt handle where it was welded to the root as well.


Life itself is a gift. Live it up if you can.
 
Posts: 5097 | Location: Near Hershey PA | Registered: 12 October 2012Reply With Quote
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You'll have to thank Duane Wiebe for the bolt handle, he welded it up. All I did to the bolt is clean up the checkering and the handle. Mr. Wiebe done a nice weld and cut it for the handle to act as a fourth safety. (3 locking lugs + the handle itself)


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Posts: 1641 | Location: Green Country Oklahoma | Registered: 03 August 2007Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by srtrax:


Custombolt:
I made my own bases to fit the Tally rings...It actually covers the length of the rear bridge, slot and all.


That is awesome.
 
Posts: 1278 | Location: The Bluegrass State | Registered: 21 October 2014Reply With Quote
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Nice work all around.


Life itself is a gift. Live it up if you can.
 
Posts: 5097 | Location: Near Hershey PA | Registered: 12 October 2012Reply With Quote
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I have offered if someone was willing to loan one out I would look at either having them made, or coming up with a good modification to match it.

I tried buying one, but it went well north of $100 at auction.


Nathaniel Myers
Myers Arms LLC
nathaniel@myersarms.com
www.myersarms.com
Follow us on Instagram and YouTube

I buy Mauser actions, parts, micrometers, tools, calipers, etc. Specifically looking for pre-WWII Mauser tools.
 
Posts: 1474 | Location: Ohio | Registered: 06 June 2010Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Fal Grunt:
I have offered if someone was willing to loan one out I would look at either having them made, or coming up with a good modification to match it.

I tried buying one, but it went well north of $100 at auction.


That one custombolt posted I made. My lathe is a piece or crap and I would never would invest in a good knurling setup since it is a cnc lathe and should just be able to cut it with a threading cycle and a single point tool if I ever get the encoder to read properly. If you what to try I will send you one and a customer list as there is a waiting list for them. With family and my full time job I don't have time to put into some of these projects. Seems never enough time. Just like your little escutcheons, if you want to make the drive up you can cut ovals all day long on one of my hurcos. Easy if you have the time and equipment, terrible if you don't. But if you want to try I'll drop a Mexican cp on the mail.
Don
 
Posts: 1084 | Location: Detroit MI | Registered: 28 March 2006Reply With Quote
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Fat Grunt you have a PM.


The only easy day is yesterday!
 
Posts: 2758 | Location: Northern Minnesota | Registered: 22 September 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Pegleg:
Fat Grunt you have a PM.


I made that same mistake myself, once?

Hint: "FAL"


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Cusom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5500 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Pegleg:
Fat Grunt you have a PM.


Ha ha.... if only you knew me!

Don, I will be in touch!


Nathaniel Myers
Myers Arms LLC
nathaniel@myersarms.com
www.myersarms.com
Follow us on Instagram and YouTube

I buy Mauser actions, parts, micrometers, tools, calipers, etc. Specifically looking for pre-WWII Mauser tools.
 
Posts: 1474 | Location: Ohio | Registered: 06 June 2010Reply With Quote
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I love the 1936 Mexican action, a little Springfield look is nice..I would like to have one cut and shortened a bit to fit a 250-3000 ala a Kurtz with a springfield cocking piece..NICE

Can't believe I sold a couple of dozen of them at one time. A guy at a San Antonio, Tx. gun show had all manor or Mexican mouser, many of them were 1936s, and I got them for $150 each, if you bought one it was $175. I sold them later on for $250 and $300. That was about 30 years ago, time does fly...

Wish I had kept at least 5 of them..

Duane,
In my youth it was common practice among the locals in West Texas to use the knob for a safety and to lower the firing pin on a "live round" and disconnect the trigger..I never knew of one to fire, but surly some did. In my lifetime I have seen some strange things like holding the trigger back and lowering the firing pin on live round, and they would tell me to never trust a safety.... homer


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 41814 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Fal Grunt:
I have offered if someone was willing to loan one out I would look at either having them made, or coming up with a good modification to match it.

I tried buying one, but it went well north of $100 at auction.


We have done business in the past. I have an original I will loan you. Contact me...
 
Posts: 522 | Location: Baltimore, MD | Registered: 21 July 2008Reply With Quote
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Anybody got a extractor for one of these? Know where to buy one..need 2.
 
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