I sold case forming dies for a few years, but discovered that the investment and turnover rate wasn't that good.
Thinking of writing an article with photos on how to make them yourself with a small lathe and a Dremel. The drawings will show dimensions for 11 die inserts to handle a .550 diameter case down to 14 cal. You will be able to do them in a Rock Chucker sized press. You will be able to take brass to an over all length of 1.100" or you can shorten your die holder and even go much shorter.
Any interest?

Go for it.

I would enjoy seeing your methods!

Butch - I have been thinking about getting in contact with you to see if you have prints for your forming dies. Now you ask "any interest" . You bet

Glenn

We've just started working on it. We will have prints, hints, and how to use them.

First of all I am interested. I have a Holywood senior press and right now I'm restricted to cutting 06 cases to 1.650" in length. I can envision going shorter with the right die, die Holder ( adapter ) and modified shell holder.
It would be helpful to have adjustable cut off dies to handle 06 cases of any length.
Another handy cut off tool would be similar to the Forster neck turning tool or possibly similar to tube cutting tools. Something that would simulate a mini lath and cut off tool.
By the way I put your bushings to a lot of use. I also have built adapters for your bushing holder so it will handle std. off the shelf drill bushings. I'm passing this info on to you as it might stimulate your already creative mind. The best to you in this new year roger

Harbor freight has a mini cutoff saw. A lot of wildcat guys buy those, mount them on a plate and make a vise to hold the brass. I believe your holder that you got from me will allow it to shorten any case to at least 1.100" OAL. I did a 308 last night to 1.100" length to be a 17cal-1.100"-308. If you cut some off the bottom of your bushing holder, you can make your brass even shorter.
I have suggested using .4375 and .500 drill bushings in the past in order that you can do the magnum cases. The ones we are drawing up will include these 2 sizes. 11 Bushings instead of the 9 in the old set.

This might make my short fat sizer and trim die collection obsolete.

I think my dies do about the same thing but some are hard to find and I can only do .473 and smaller brass.

A few pics.





I added 2 sizes for the larger size magnum cases.

This is the little saw that makes it real easy to cut to length.

http://www.harborfreight.com/b...t-off-saw-42307.html

The new WSSSSSSSSSSSSSM !

Those must be Butch's new and improved fly swatters!

Butch,I bought a set of these from you a few years ago + at the time you had no instruction manuals,only email directions.I lost that info + have'nt used them in ages so basically I forgot. I would love some written instructional guidelines.And yes I could probably figure it out but I have reached an age where I stopped trying to reinvent the wheel.

I never had any written instructions. If I have an existing case I put it in the press and start with the largest bushing. Screw the die holder down until it contacts the case[bushing]. Put your unformed case in with a lot of lube and make a pass. Keep going down in bushing size until you have met your target size. Cut or trim to length. Fireform and you should be good to go. If you do not have a formed case, you will have to play with the length to get what you want.







The last photo shows the last set. I made 2 additional bushings for mine to allow me to play with the .543 cases.

I believe John Barsness will write a how to article this spring.

Are these sizing buttons made with different shoulder angles, ie, 25*,30* 35* etc?

Hard to rell from the picture, the shoulders look radiused like the WBY shoulders.

Tia,
Don

When you are case forming you cannot make a certain shoulder angle. You would need about 55 inserts. The dies are to reduce to size. When you fireform you get your final size and shoulder angle.

quote:

Originally posted by butchlambert:
When you are case forming you cannot make a certain shoulder angle. You would need about 55 inserts. The dies are to reduce to size. When you fireform you get your final size and shoulder angle.

What you say is correct,but you know from past correspondence that an angled bushing can give you a larger diametrical bite than the radius and not create the downward force that produces the mushrooming at the body shoulder junction or the collapse of the shoulder with the neck being driven into it. I can E-mail you examples of both.
In no way , Butch, is this meant to be argumentative but offered in the way of open creative discussion.
The bushing angle in no way determines the final shoulder angle ;as you say the fire forming takes care of that.

So are you selling?

No,
I don't think so. They are actually very easy to make in a home shop.

Thanks for the reply Butch + will look forward to Barsness's article in Handloader.

Butch,

I'd be interested in instructions for making the forming dies.

Thanks,
Steve

Most folks will never wear out a set of die bushings made of 1018 or unhardened SS. You can buy 5/8" round stock and cut them into 5/8" length. I make 11 bushings by drilling holes in them from .205,.223,.250,.272,.302,.323,.348,.386,.402,.432,and .500. You cut a 45deg taper into the drilled hole. The taper needs to be wider than the neck that you are forming. I would first make a taper on all the bushings about .575 wide and taper a 45deg. to your drilled hole. You need your die grinder and a Cratex wheel to polish your 45deg and especially where it transitions to your drilled hole. Once they are polished you are good to go. If you think you will make several thousand cases over a few years you can either make them out of a heat treatabls material and heat treat, case harden, melonite QPQ, or a titanium nitride.
For your die holder you can use 1" hex or anything 1.125 round and mill your own hex. They die holder will be 1.750 in total length with an 1.500 of .875x14. You need to bore a .590 hole all the way through. Now bore a hole .685 wide by 1.25 deep from the hex end. You will need to thread the ID .685x20tpi about .650 deep. Now for the nut. It needs to be made from .750 hex stock or .875 or larger round stock and you cut the hex. It needs to be 1" long with a .540 hole drilled through it. The OD needs to be threaded .685x2otpi for 1" in length.
Hopefully this answers your question.

quote:

Originally posted by butchlambert:
You cut a 45deg taper into the drilled hole. The taper needs to be wider than the neck that you are forming. .

Congratulations on going to the taper rather than continuing with the radius. roger

Thanks for posting, Butch.