After cleaning my bore with Butch's Bore Shine, I run a patch of Kroil down the bore and wipe-down all the outside of the barrel & action.

Would you say this would give me good enough protection from rust, moisture, etc.?

Thanks for your replies!

Kroil is rated unsatisfactory in the Gun Zone test, even WD40 is rated better.

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

Kroil is a penetrant.Good for loosening up rusted bolts etc.I use Birchwood Casey Barricade.It lubes and protects against Rust. OB

I prefer plain old motor oil for wiping down outside surfaces. It seems to stick around longer.

Kroil is awfully thin, and it seems to evaporate pretty quick. I don't think the stuff smells too good either.

As a surprisingly good rust protector oil, it is hard to beat common Auto-Transmission Fluid. As a thin oil it lubes well, doesn't dry to a gummy film and its resistance to moisture penatration is better than anything else I've tried, and that's been a lot!

I learned this by giving my cast iron table saw top a quick wipe when I was out of my normal oil for that job, 10W-30 Mobile One oil, which does a fair job but its not great.

My saw is stored in a garage/shop near the door so it gets exposed to high humidity with every rain and I had fought rust on it for 4 years. I expected the ATF to give minimal protection but that was maybe six months ago and there is not a spec of rust on that otherwise unprotected iron top!

I've been using ATF as a gun oil for years, now I use it for a gun rust protectant too.

An outstanding weapons lubricant is Militec - 1.
I have used it for quite awhile and have been very impressed with it. You can check out their web site and decide for yourself. www.militec-1.com

quote:

Originally posted by Jim C. <><:
As a surprisingly good rust protector oil, it is hard to beat common Auto-Transmission Fluid. As a thin oil it lubes well, doesn't dry to a gummy film and its resistance to moisture penatration is better than anything else I've tried, and that's been a lot!

I learned this by giving my cast iron table saw top a quick wipe when I was out of my normal oil for that job, 10W-30 Mobile One oil, which does a fair job but its not great.

My saw is stored in a garage/shop near the door so it gets exposed to high humidity with every rain and I had fought rust on it for 4 years. I expected the ATF to give minimal protection but that was maybe six months ago and there is not a spec of rust on that otherwise unprotected iron top!

I've been using ATF as a gun oil for years, now I use it for a gun rust protectant too.

Interesting to know, ATF is also a part of Ed´s Red bore cleaner! THE homebrew solvent of my choice...

quote:

Originally posted by marangcan:
An outstanding weapons lubricant is Militec - 1.
I have used it for quite awhile and have been very impressed with it. You can check out their web site and decide for yourself. www.militec-1.com

Militec may be a great lubricant, but it sucks as a rust preventative. The Gunzone test rates it as unsatisfactory in their single dose exposure test, so they didn't even test it in the prolonged exposure test.

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

EEZOX is the best rust proofer (EEZOX.com)

I like the fact that is dries, I hate handling oil slimed firearms.

The down side is that the product stinks.
I used to think it smelled bad, so I would just think about how well it is preventing my rifles from rusting and so I've got'en used to the odor, so now I think it just smells (I never liked Hoppes 9 smell either) but that just my nose.
I do belive the oder slowly get less strong as the wetness of the product dries.

If you are real worried about the smell like during a deer hunt you could remove it and use a conventional gun oil during the hunt.

Try SLICKER from www,sharpshootr.com
Goes on as a liquid and dries to a tack free grease only microns thick and cannot be remove without a de-greaser. Did my Winchester about 2 years ago and still haven't had to redo it.
Great on slides and bolts!!
Plus it is di-electric negative so it doesn't attract dust like most other lubes which are positively charged..


regards
griff

WD-40 is the worst thing to put on a gun. due to the moving parts and make up of wd40 it turns to gum.

try it-wipe down an old gun and put it in the closet for a year, it will be coated with a thick gum when picked up and a new cleaning job.

quote:

Originally posted by two canoes:
WD-40 is the worst thing to put on a gun. due to the moving parts and make up of wd40 it turns to gum.

try it-wipe down an old gun and put it in the closet for a year, it will be coated with a thick gum when picked up and a new cleaning job.

I know a gunsmith that makes a "fortune" each year by cleaning out guns that have been sprayed with WD-40. (He thinks a can should be supplied with every gun)

I get Kroil free, and it is the easiest all-around rifle barrel cleaner out there. Especially my black powder rifles. That said, I finish with a very light coat of gun oil. When I am ready to shoot again, a patch of carb cleaner or alcohol cleans the oil out.

Rich
DRSS

quote:

Originally posted by Late-Bloomer:
Would you say this would give me good enough protection from rust, moisture, etc.?

An emphatic NO!

If you have faith in the gun test recommending Break Free CLP as one of the best, then also have a look at their new product, Break Free "Collector." Good for 5 years of long term storage protection. I only have 1 years worth of use but so far so good. Like CLP, I just saturate a cotton rag with it and wipe down all exposed surfaces. Two drops on a clean patch swabs the bore and chamber. Works good on my Penn International saltwater fishing reels, too.

quote:

Originally posted by Late-Bloomer:
After cleaning my bore with Butch's Bore Shine, I run a patch of Kroil down the bore and wipe-down all the outside of the barrel & action.

Would you say this would give me good enough protection from rust, moisture, etc.?

Thanks for your replies!

When Kroil's solvent evaporates it leaves behind brown sticky shit
So No!

quote:

Originally posted by tsturm:

quote:

Originally posted by Late-Bloomer:
After cleaning my bore with Butch's Bore Shine, I run a patch of Kroil down the bore and wipe-down all the outside of the barrel & action.

Would you say this would give me good enough protection from rust, moisture, etc.?

Thanks for your replies!

When Kroil's solvent evaporates it leaves behind brown sticky shit
So No!

'
I agree , Kroil does leave a brown dryed/skicky residue. But it wipes right off.

I was leaveing some of my rifles wiped down with Kroil to see how it worked. I live in a very dry area also.

I use ATF to store my guns. ATF is a very purified oil. Best stuff/cheap and sitting in most peoples garage. Never went for any of the Fancy, expensive, gimmik, $10 bucks for-a-1 ounce bottle concocktions

hasnt any body ever tried hoppies m.d.l. works good for lub.and rust prof.

I use Kroil in the cleaning process but like Clenzoil for short term bore protection.

I have used WD40 for about 40 years on guns and have never ever seen any gum! Are you sure it is not your cleaner or is it the inside of you case coming loose? And my gun are in like new shape with no rust. A friend likes Kroil to get lead out when he cleans his slug barrel. It will get under the lead so it will come out easy.

There are lots of uses for WD-40. My gunsmith brother hates degreasers like Action Blaster, etc. He sees a lot of rusted parts because those chemicals strip all protection off the parts. He soaks parts like bolts or other assemblies in a can of WD-40 overnight and then blows it all out with a high pressure blast from an air compressor. It is also good to use after hunting in the rain, as it displaces water. (Water Displacement = WD...get it?) It is not a lube nor is it a rust preventative. It is probably better than nothing, but not the best choice by far.

I have used Midway's Rust Guard, Sheath and a couple others that work well fro storage. If I am hunting in the rain, I use car wax on the external metal parts...

Kroil does work well to help get leading out. I run a couple of patches through to get the powder fouling out and then soak the barrel in Kroil and let it sit for an hour or so to allow it to penetrate under the lead.

I thought I read somewhere that WD-40 is made with a lot of fish oil which kind of goes with the Water Displacement characteristic of it. I've sprayed down guns that I have stored and about 20 years later there were no signs of rust.

I used Kroil some 30+ years ago when I used to fool with Corvairs a lot. It was a pretty good penetrating oil and fairly cheap - I used a lot of it. I then went overseas for several years and left a gallon of Kroil and an oiler full in my garage. When I returned the liquid in both containers had turned to muck and the oiler and rusted up inside. No Kroil on my guns!

I use good old ATF as a cheap easy wipe on that really works well. I used the later Ford Mercon? versions that have some synenthic oil in them.

For long term rust protection and in barrels it is still tough to beat the old standard: RIG It has beeb around forever and stood the test of time. One big use in days past was to protect the bores of guns after shooting corrosive primed ammo. It apparently did a good job.

WD-40 is a penetrant and displaces water, but it is not an effective lubricant nor does it provide good rust protection. See the rust prevention tests by Accurate Reloading under the FAQS section of this site. You'll be amazed. Note: They didn't test Kroil, but it is my understanding that, it too, is intended to be a penetrant for loosening stuck stuff, but does not serve as a good longterm protectant.

Red that's what I'm picking up here; I just started using Kroil and I guess I was lucky to have treated a gun I stored for over 20 years with WD-40 that didn't show a bit of rust. I will be switching to ATF and I just ordered a can of Break-Free to see how that works. Tests seem to like it. But I do still like the Kroil for cleaning; as I read somewhere, it's penetrating oil qualities does a great job of removing lead deposits.

NO to Kroil as a protectant. I used it on my rifles one year over the winter for storage and the next spring, nothing but rust came out of the bore of three rifles. I have since switched to Break-Free and havent had any more problems. I also tried Break-Free Collector this winter and it has done well. It is about three times as thick as regular break-free.

I personally have never had a problem with wd40 or kroil but I also do not leave them on the metal.

ATF is an excellent choice but I go a step further and use Amsoil's full sythetic ATF. 1 bottle will last you a very long time. The reason atf is so good is, it is a 20 weight oil, and loaded with detergents.

When my guns are cleaned and ready for storage, they get a bath with KG gun oil or Amsoil ATF down the bore and a very light coat on the action.

Never had a problem.

My usual gun oil of choice is ATF usually mixed with 10% more or less of mineral spirits.

I use kroil to clean with and Break Free to coat with works very well and doesn't gum
Break Free works really well to keep my high carbon knives from rusting also

I use Rust Prevent by Shooters Choice on all my rifles.For long storage I mop the bore with Kell lube.

I've become a Break Free user and love the stuff but I just ordered a can of Eezox Synthetic Gun Oil for lubricating my 1911. I figure if this synthetic is anything like synthetics for your auto crankcase, this should be a winner to keep wear down.

Anybody have any experience with Eezox Synthetic Gun Oil?

I've been using Eezox for the better part of 20yrs, Breakfree CLP is the only other oil that I'd use, but I prefer Eezox, I bought a case of it in 1990 or so, just ran out recently, ordered some more from Midway.

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

That's where I got it. Thanks for the information.

Can someone tell me the good and/or the bad of One Shot Gun Cleaner and Dry Lub by Hornady?

Eezox just kicks ass in the test shown above and one other I've seen. Break Free CLP did as good as any of the rest.

Can't find Eezox in my stores but will order some with my next Midway purchase.

I use Kroil with moly bullets in my varmint rigs..
one wet patch followed by 2-3 Butches and a final wet Kroil...shoot again...always shoot wet..humidity is not an issue...10% is high in my Utah climate....

Well someone has to mention G96 spray-on 3 in 1
May not be the best, but I'll bet it smells the best. I usually spray it on a rag first, then you get a thin layer that tends to dry leaving a thin film that's not yucky oily.

quote:

Originally posted by Burlington Rd:
Eezox just kicks ass in the test shown above and one other I've seen. Break Free CLP did as good as any of the rest.

Can't find Eezox in my stores but will order some with my next Midway purchase.

Eezox also works great in the cold temperatures I encounter here in AK.

For the outside of the gun I use Break Free, Birchwood Casey Sheath, RIG or if I am in very dusty conditions Prolix. Prolix dries and dust does not stick to it.

Inside the bore for storage I use Sheath. If I am hunting with the gun I use Prolix.

I have found that I can clean the barrel with Prolix, wipe out the chamber, push a couple of dry patches through the barrel, and it does not change the point of impact for the first shots out of the barrel.

Agree Kroil is pretty damn expensive too