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Anyone like WD-40 for bore oiling and conditioning?
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quote:
Originally posted by Gatogordo:
quote:
I now use only WD40 specialist Corrosion Inhibitor and Frog Lube.


I read the test too and subsequently bought a few bottles of Frog Lube. Horrible stuff unless you use it strictly for long term rust prevention. It becomes gummy and sticky. I used it on my son's Super Black Eagle at end of season last year after he was in the rain all day. Gun would not function this year, completely gummed up. We had to completely take it apart, use brake cleaner, and air compressor on it to get all the gunk out. Outside, fine if you don't mind the tacky texture, Inside, never unless you're using it to clean barrel and are going to remove all but the faintest trace. My advice, buy another product. Like Hornady TAP, for instance.

Shootaway, more barrels are ruined by cleaning than neglect. IMO most non-target guns barrels are way overcleaned.

I don't think I've ever talked to a gunsmith that doesn't like WD-40 because it creates work for them cleaning up the gummed up actions. Anyone who says WD-40 doesn't leave a sticky deposit if sprayed on and left must be living on another planet than me. It's not bad stuff, great water displacer, just not designed for triggers or tight spaces.

It is not for nothing shooters clean their rifles.I am sure if their rifles kept on being accurate none of them would clean.There is a reason they are constantly cleaning their bores.Any time you shoot you are aiming at a target.It is the copper-if it wasn't for that cleaning would be a small issue,IMO.
 
Posts: 11651 | Location: Montreal | Registered: 07 November 2002Reply With Quote
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I just did a search for what a small can of Hoppe's oil goes for around here.At thirty dollars I think I will stay with WD-40.
 
Posts: 11651 | Location: Montreal | Registered: 07 November 2002Reply With Quote
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It is not for nothing shooters clean their rifles.I am sure if their rifles kept on being accurate none of them would clean.There is a reason they are constantly cleaning their bores.Any time you shoot you are aiming for a target.It is the copper-if it wasn't for that cleaning would be a small issue,IMO.


Admittedly different shooters use different methods, benchrest shooters seem to clean very often and long range shooters seem to clean much less often. However, for the level of accuracy your shooting requires, cleaning barrels often is a waste of time.

From an older article on cleaning:

quote:
Jerry Tierney, 2005 NBRSA 1000-Yard Champion
Member, U.S. Palma Team
"For my 6.5-284 and .284 I clean every 100-150 rounds and normally do not brush. I'll go even longer with the .308. I've found that my X-count peaked with the Palma rifle at the fourth or fifth match (about 200-300 rounds)."

This is controversial I know, but I do a LOT less barrel cleaning than most people do. I typically run a lot of rounds through the barrel before cleaning, and I rarely use a brush.

In a multi-day match, with all the rifles I shoot, I'll almost always wait 'til the end of the match before cleaning. Only if I experience something unusual, then I'll go ahead and clean. Most of the time, I do NOT brush. I'll use Shooters Choice, wet patches, one wet, two dry. Occasionally I'll use a nylon brush, maybe every third cleaning--about every 300 rounds. On a Palma barrel I'll go up to 500 rounds between cleaning, so that might mean 2000 rounds between brushing. I've developed this cleaning regimen based on my observed match results. I've found that my X-count peaked with the Palma rifle at the fourth or fifth match (about 200-300 rounds). Once I get about 200 rounds through the barrel, the X-count seems to climb for about 150-200 rounds then levels out. And then I'll clean at about 400 rounds.

On the 6.5-284 and .284 I'll clean after a double match, so I'll clean every 100-150 rounds. I haven't needed to use JB on the throat. I'm not a fan of moly or putting any abrasive cleaners in my barrel. When I do brush, I use nylon and I'll remove the brush after it exits the muzzle. I agree with the smiths who say that many barrels are ruined by improper cleaning. I've seen crown damage because of bad cleaning rod procedures. I do advocate taking the brush off at the end of the muzzle to protect the crown. And, as long as we're stirring controversy here, I don't uniform primer pockets, I don't ream flash-holes (other than deburring Win brass), and I don't religiously scrape out the primer pockets after each firing (I will if they're real dirty). I've tested and I have not been able to demonstrate these processes deliver better accuracy or better scores."

David Tubb, 11-Time NRA (Camp Perry) National Champion
"I shoot moly-coated bullets. I usually shoot 400-450 rounds with the 6XC and DTAC 115s. Then I clean the barrel thoroughly with Sweet's 7.62 and brass brush."

I shoot moly in most every caliber if possible. I thoroughly clean or not at all. I'll use a one-caliber oversize brass brush and Sweet's 7.62. I'll brush for about 20 strokes each way, keeping the brush wet with solvent. Cleaning the barrel that thoroughly will require you to season your barrel back (this applies whether you shoot bare bullets or moly-coated bullets). I figure most never notice this since they shoot their first shots at 200 yards or less. When shooting a longer distance (1000 yards) I like to see about a dozen shots through before I go for record. To show you the importance of "re-seasoning" your barrel, here is one example of many I have encountered. In 1995 I shot a match in Baily, Colorado, starting at 600 yards early in the morning. I cleaned the rifle as described above and even shot three foulers through it on the way to the range (nobody else does this do they!?) Anyway, I shot a 100-1X for the first 10 shots (plus two sighters to start the string) then followed up with a 100-9X using a 243 with uncoated 107gr Sierras. That shows you the difference between a "squeaky clean" barrel, and one which has been seasoned.

I usually shoot up to 400-450 rounds without cleaning the 6XC with 115s and robust loads. After that I want to clean since it is time for a few (usually three) TMS (lapping) bullets to keep the throat in order. After the last of three patches, I'll run one with either Hoppes #9 or Shooters Choice to add back a small amount of lubrication for the first shot to follow. [Editor: for info on TMS system go to DavidTubb.com.]

Stan Ware, SGR Custom Rifles, Gunsmith and Score Shooter
"I normally go 80-95 rounds between cleanings. My 30BR is capable of .068" MOA accuracy and I've seen no drop off in accuracy for 100 rounds or more. I've seen barrels ruined with abrasive cleaners."

Count me among those who are favoring shooting more and cleaning less. With my 30BR, using a Lilja 3-groove barrel, I've found I can go 80-95 rounds (five complete score matches) with no drop-off in accuracy. This barrel has shot .068" for five shots, and, in the right conditions, that accuracy potential will hold for 100 shots or more.


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Posts: 17099 | Location: Texas USA | Registered: 07 May 2001Reply With Quote
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One thing to remember, premium barrels like Kreiger, Hart, Lilja, Pac Nor are amazingly smooth from the manufacture as several perform hand lapping before the first shot. They do not collect copper like some of the more rough factory barrels. So cleaning can be a function of how quickly the bore goes south.

When I was shooting a lot of F-Class I would clean every 100 to 150 rounds. But none of my rifles had a big POI cold, clean bore shift so I wasn't too nervous about it. Some guys I shot with didn't clean the whole season - a little extreme in my opinion.

My culling rifles can go days to weeks before cleaning. My hunting/protection rifles get a little better treatment.


___________________

Just Remember, We ALL Told You So.
 
Posts: 22442 | Location: Occupying Little Minds Rent Free | Registered: 04 October 2012Reply With Quote
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posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Gatogordo:
quote:
It is not for nothing shooters clean their rifles.I am sure if their rifles kept on being accurate none of them would clean.There is a reason they are constantly cleaning their bores.Any time you shoot you are aiming for a target.It is the copper-if it wasn't for that cleaning would be a small issue,IMO.


Admittedly different shooters use different methods, benchrest shooters seem to clean very often and long range shooters seem to clean much less often. However, for the level of accuracy your shooting requires, cleaning barrels often is a waste of time.

From an older article on cleaning:

quote:
Jerry Tierney, 2005 NBRSA 1000-Yard Champion
Member, U.S. Palma Team
"For my 6.5-284 and .284 I clean every 100-150 rounds and normally do not brush. I'll go even longer with the .308. I've found that my X-count peaked with the Palma rifle at the fourth or fifth match (about 200-300 rounds)."

This is controversial I know, but I do a LOT less barrel cleaning than most people do. I typically run a lot of rounds through the barrel before cleaning, and I rarely use a brush.

In a multi-day match, with all the rifles I shoot, I'll almost always wait 'til the end of the match before cleaning. Only if I experience something unusual, then I'll go ahead and clean. Most of the time, I do NOT brush. I'll use Shooters Choice, wet patches, one wet, two dry. Occasionally I'll use a nylon brush, maybe every third cleaning--about every 300 rounds. On a Palma barrel I'll go up to 500 rounds between cleaning, so that might mean 2000 rounds between brushing. I've developed this cleaning regimen based on my observed match results. I've found that my X-count peaked with the Palma rifle at the fourth or fifth match (about 200-300 rounds). Once I get about 200 rounds through the barrel, the X-count seems to climb for about 150-200 rounds then levels out. And then I'll clean at about 400 rounds.

On the 6.5-284 and .284 I'll clean after a double match, so I'll clean every 100-150 rounds. I haven't needed to use JB on the throat. I'm not a fan of moly or putting any abrasive cleaners in my barrel. When I do brush, I use nylon and I'll remove the brush after it exits the muzzle. I agree with the smiths who say that many barrels are ruined by improper cleaning. I've seen crown damage because of bad cleaning rod procedures. I do advocate taking the brush off at the end of the muzzle to protect the crown. And, as long as we're stirring controversy here, I don't uniform primer pockets, I don't ream flash-holes (other than deburring Win brass), and I don't religiously scrape out the primer pockets after each firing (I will if they're real dirty). I've tested and I have not been able to demonstrate these processes deliver better accuracy or better scores."

David Tubb, 11-Time NRA (Camp Perry) National Champion
"I shoot moly-coated bullets. I usually shoot 400-450 rounds with the 6XC and DTAC 115s. Then I clean the barrel thoroughly with Sweet's 7.62 and brass brush."

I shoot moly in most every caliber if possible. I thoroughly clean or not at all. I'll use a one-caliber oversize brass brush and Sweet's 7.62. I'll brush for about 20 strokes each way, keeping the brush wet with solvent. Cleaning the barrel that thoroughly will require you to season your barrel back (this applies whether you shoot bare bullets or moly-coated bullets). I figure most never notice this since they shoot their first shots at 200 yards or less. When shooting a longer distance (1000 yards) I like to see about a dozen shots through before I go for record. To show you the importance of "re-seasoning" your barrel, here is one example of many I have encountered. In 1995 I shot a match in Baily, Colorado, starting at 600 yards early in the morning. I cleaned the rifle as described above and even shot three foulers through it on the way to the range (nobody else does this do they!?) Anyway, I shot a 100-1X for the first 10 shots (plus two sighters to start the string) then followed up with a 100-9X using a 243 with uncoated 107gr Sierras. That shows you the difference between a "squeaky clean" barrel, and one which has been seasoned.

I usually shoot up to 400-450 rounds without cleaning the 6XC with 115s and robust loads. After that I want to clean since it is time for a few (usually three) TMS (lapping) bullets to keep the throat in order. After the last of three patches, I'll run one with either Hoppes #9 or Shooters Choice to add back a small amount of lubrication for the first shot to follow. [Editor: for info on TMS system go to DavidTubb.com.]

Stan Ware, SGR Custom Rifles, Gunsmith and Score Shooter
"I normally go 80-95 rounds between cleanings. My 30BR is capable of .068" MOA accuracy and I've seen no drop off in accuracy for 100 rounds or more. I've seen barrels ruined with abrasive cleaners."

Count me among those who are favoring shooting more and cleaning less. With my 30BR, using a Lilja 3-groove barrel, I've found I can go 80-95 rounds (five complete score matches) with no drop-off in accuracy. This barrel has shot .068" for five shots, and, in the right conditions, that accuracy potential will hold for 100 shots or more.

Other top shooters will say just the opposite.I believe what I experience.
 
Posts: 11651 | Location: Montreal | Registered: 07 November 2002Reply With Quote
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The second M16 that I was issued overseas would only fire the chambered cartridge and them would not eject. so I'd chamber a round, fire it, then place the butt on the ground and stomp on the extractor handle. I just had to make sure I was not in line with the muzzle when the bolt went forward, chambering another round. the problem was solved by taking it to the armorer who submerged it over night in a split 55 gallon drum filled with WD40. The next day he took it out, cleaned the WD40 off, inside & out. After that it fired first time-every time. I don't know how it works for preventing rust, but for loosening carbon and whatever else can get in a rifle, it did a very good job.
 
Posts: 1421 | Location: WA St, USA | Registered: 28 August 2016Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by RaySendero:
I like WD-40 for cleaning and moisture removal.

That's it!


keep it away from any rubber/plastics in guns it will eat it..

We use it in our Hawkins flintlocks to get moisture out after we clean with WARM soapy water .never use it too store a rifle...

There is test with steel plates and wd-40 did terrible outside but its not gun inside etc.. ..

it is great at removing bugs from your truck grill ..

Most I know use Breakfree clp from wal-mart its not expensive and works..
 
Posts: 110 | Location: wilds of pa .... | Registered: 31 December 2016Reply With Quote
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Misuse of WD-40 and most oils will cause gummy! spray a tad on a pach and wipe...Don't leave it there until it gums..

I don't normally use any oil on my triggers or actions, other than on rare occasions I might wipe a very thin coat with an almost dry oily patch, same with my barrels inside and out. Oil collects dust, dirt and grim, all of it does, the secret to WD-40 and crank case oil is don't use too much..

If your wanting to rust proof your gun, give it a coat of Johnsons wax, it will last two weeks to a month in the far North or under the equator.


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 41814 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by SR4759:
I buy Barricade in the small can and do not have to use but a very small amount.
I quit using WD-40 for anything except removing tar from my car 40 years ago. It would not protect my firearms from rust.

quote:
Originally posted by Jon Leary:
I been using WD 40 for 30 years or more, I clean the bore first with bore cleaner then swab it out with WD. I buy it by the gallon and use spray bottles. Never had a rusted bore. Also use it to wipe off the exterior of the gun. If you have problems with gumming you aren"t using enough to flush out the gunk.



You are right it is best tar/bug remover for your car ..Now over to flintlocks where I shine,WD-40 is great..It removes water after you give your barrel a cleaning with WARM soapy dawn soap in toilet ..We use it all the time BUT never store your barrel with it you will get rust.....I use Breakfree clp because it eats nothing like wd-40 will if you get never any rubber etc and breakfree is available at Wal-mart...

long ago when i lived in new jersey I went over to benchrest shooters to watch.I noticed they had can of CLP on their tables and I have been using it ever sense...

No expert on what works only what I read here but i can tell ya that wd-40 will not protect steel if it gets wet and will eat rubber ..That i saw..
 
Posts: 110 | Location: wilds of pa .... | Registered: 31 December 2016Reply With Quote
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WD-40 is like anything else, it depends on how and where you use it..I never spray a gun, I spray a patch and wipe the gun off then rund a dry rag over that...Been in the high country for a month at a time in a foot of snow and have never rusted a gun, In Alaska I mostly use Johnsons Wax, it worked, but I always have a can of WD-40..

But the truth is most all that stuff works if you read the directions.!! Eeker


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 41814 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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If you want to destroy seals in semi auto shotgun use wd-40 ..It does eat gaskets/seals..We only use it to get water out of the bore of our flintlocks or under the sights etc..
 
Posts: 110 | Location: wilds of pa .... | Registered: 31 December 2016Reply With Quote
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I used it today to leave a light film of oil in my bores after cleaning.It is not too heavy and the actions on all my rifles work really slick after application.My Satterlee/Martini Lott loves it.My Rugers actions like a little FP-10 but they are not tight tolerance.
 
Posts: 11651 | Location: Montreal | Registered: 07 November 2002Reply With Quote
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Well, its better than Crisco, Wesson corn oil, or chicken fat... dancing


NRA Benefactor.

Life is tough... It's even tougher when you're stupid... John Wayne
 
Posts: 1958 | Location: The Three Lower Counties (Delaware USA) | Registered: 13 September 2001Reply With Quote
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Since its worked for me for over 70 years I can't understand how it won't work for those that determined it bad goo with 18 months of using it in many cases..I think too many chose stuff with unreasonable expectations, I think I must have guided and/or booked a couple of them in my lifetime!.. pissers


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 41814 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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LIke reading a massive fairy tale, one conditioner is just like another..used right your guns will never rust, its neglect and laziness that ruins guns..not WD-40 or any other solvent, cleaner or oil.


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 41814 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Bacon grease is hard to beat IMO.

The salt hones the action and when the barrel heats up it smells so good (brings in bears as well)

BH63


Hunting buff is better than sex!
 
Posts: 2205 | Registered: 29 December 2015Reply With Quote
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I use WD-40 and whatevers handy at the time..IMO maintance is what preserves metal and wood, keep your guns clean and wipe them down after cleaning or after handling them then check them every few days or often depending on climate, and most all the stuff works..Check your gun every six months as many do and you deserve rust..


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 41814 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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