While there may not be a 100% like substitute, a mixture of kerosene and ATF will be pretty good. I've used a lot of it to soak rusted parts.
I haven't done it, but you might want to try that odorless kerosene they sell at hardware stores or even Walmart for kerosene heaters. It's probably refined a little more.

I think Kroil is an internet myth started many years ago. That's it's very expensive helps that myth making many think it's the greatest. Know what it is? It's a placebo. You automatically think it's the most fantastic stuff there is because EVERYONE says so. To tell you the truth ATF is far better then it would ever be. As far as just a penetrating oil the stuff that beats the doors off of Kroil is GIBBS. Never seen anyone in the automotive repair use Kroil to break nuts and bolts loose. It's over rated!

Never heard of GIBBS, will have to try it.

I've never heard of Gibbs either but it might just be the cat's meow, I don't know. In defense of Kroil oil though I will say that since it breaks down to a millionth of a particle, that's some good penetration. When I was still in the HVAC business we would use it to penetrate 'frozen on' fan blades from motor shafts. It worked very well.

I had a very rusted 1/2 ratchet wrench that someone threw away, along with some rusty sockets. I put them in a metal baking pan and covered them with ATF. Left them for about a week in my garage and when I pulled them out I was shocked! Except for the abuse and wear they where clean and free of all the rust. ATF is amazing oil.

You know the fans on your desktop pc's? When they go bad? I take them apart, actually not all the way apart. There is a tape seal and you pull that off and plastic plus lifts up and you blow it out a little and put a tiny drop of ATF on it and put it back together and they run forever.

Here's Gibbs:

http://www.gibbsbrandlubricant.com/

Watched a guy on a truck show stand a long threaded bolt up vertical and spray the very bottom of it on the table and just watched Gibbs climb the bolt quite a ways. Bought a can and have been using it every since. Had some really hard WW2 Jap Arisaka's I pulled the barrels off and sprayed them with Gibbs. They didn't give me any trouble getting them off. Your mileage may vary.

We're all looking for a miracle in a can.

Dave

quote:

Originally posted by nopride2:
We're all looking for a miracle in a can.

Dave

That's easy Dave, that's Genie!!!

atf+brake fluid -- never look back

quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:
atf+brake fluid -- never look back

OK, gonna' try it. 50/50 mix ?

I do keep an oil can with ATF in the shop for lubricating the joints in my S/m brakes, rollers + other shop equipment.

the basic one is 50/50 .. you can then get into rendering panter piss and hen's teeth -- i've done this, too .. but yeah, my favorite is royal purple atf and brake fluid - smells nice, it's a purple nerple, and just works .. and frankly, 2 quarts of the stuff lasts forever - especially of if you store it in a metal can, like thinner cans or wd40 jugs

Isn’t brake fluid hydroscopic? Ever seen an old leaking master cylinder? They are rusted to pieces when brake fluid is exposed to the air.
Always willing to learn though.

I'll take Kroil any day. I had a Polaris Ranger literally burn to the ground 4 years ago. It had a few custom built items on it, like a front hood rack, rear high seat, and a couple other things on it that I decided I wanted to try and salvage for my replacement Ranger. The old one had been sitting in a caliche pit ever since it burned up. Just a short couple of months ago I took a can of kroil out there and soaked the bolts good and let them sit for about an hour. To my surprise (yes, I was surprised), every nut and bolt came off and the parts were salvaged. You can't tell me Kroil doesn't penetrate extremely well.

quote:

Originally posted by JGRaider:
I'll take Kroil any day. I had a Polaris Ranger literally burn to the ground 4 years ago. It had a few custom built items on it, like a front hood rack, rear high seat, and a couple other things on it that I decided I wanted to try and salvage for my replacement Ranger. The old one had been sitting in a caliche pit ever since it burned up. Just a short couple of months ago I took a can of kroil out there and soaked the bolts good and let them sit for about an hour. To my surprise (yes, I was surprised), every nut and bolt came off and the parts were salvaged. You can't tell me Kroil doesn't penetrate extremely well.

Done the same thing with a 1956 Allis Chalmers using Gibbs. This included the exhaust manifold bolts which were rusted for many years. How do we know your bolts were that tight? You know you can do the same thing by heating the bolt/nut area with torch and putting paraffin on it? I believe ATF would have done the same. Reckon we need a big laboratory test of various corroded and rusted nuts and bolt and a big show down with Kroil and everything else. Never seen an auto repair show (even WW2 tanks) that used Kroil.

This is what Kroil is:

SECTION 3: COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTSChemicalNameCAS#%LVP Aliphatic Hydrocarbon64742-47-830-60Severely Hydrotreated Heavy Petroleum Distillates64742-52-564742-53-630-60DiisobutylKetone108-83-87-13ProprietaryAdditiveProprietary5-10AliphaticAlcohol#1123-42-21 -<3AliphaticAlcohol#278-83-11 -<3

vzerone, just because you don't believe it, doesn't necessarily mean it doesn't work. I've used it for years here in the oil field on all types of corroded equipment. You can lug all that other schittt around and use it all you want, I'll stick with Kroil because it works.

Mix Kroil with any ammonia bore cleaning product and clean your bore and see what happens if you don't wipe every single little bit of it out and shoot your rifle. I'll advise you not to do it.

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:
Mix Kroil with any ammonia bore cleaning product and clean your bore and see what happens if you don't wipe every single little bit of it out and shoot your rifle. I'll advise you not to do it.

Amonia based cleaning is for idiots.

quote:

Originally posted by JGRaider:

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:
Mix Kroil with any ammonia bore cleaning product and clean your bore and see what happens if you don't wipe every single little bit of it out and shoot your rifle. I'll advise you not to do it.

Amonia based cleaning is for idiots.

So, do those of us who use Sweet's 7.62, Barnes CR-10 and others qualify ?

You're an idiot.

You two are real assholes! Trying to tell you I know someone that done what I said and screwed his rifle up. For some reason that combination when not wiped out of the bore very well cause the bullet to alloy up the bore badly. I mentioned it because I'm seeing some here who mix various concoctions.

quote:

Originally posted by vzerone:
You two are real assholes! Trying to tell you I know someone that done what I said and screwed his rifle up. For some reason that combination when not wiped out of the bore very well cause the bullet to alloy up the bore badly. I mentioned it because I'm seeing some here who mix various concoctions.

You might want to re read the comments. JGRaider said ammonia based cleaning is for idiots. I did not.

Sorry craigster, that was a little strong, and uncalled for. I was speaking to vzerone specifically. I apologize for that poor response.

I should have said there is really no reason nowadays to use amonia based cleaners and solvents. Bore Tech Eliminator and Wipe Out do a much better job IMO.

....and all I was trying to do is wise some people up to the hazards of mixing various items for bore cleaning or oiling.

i never had kroil for gun cleaning. however, i did use kroil on taking the screws off on my 1898 spr armory rear sight. oil, pb blaster, liquid wrench and acetone+atf did not take the screws off. so i put put a drop or two of kroil and waited till the next morning. the screws came out almost immediately. i use pb blaster, acetone+atf and liquid wrench on bolts/screws that are rusted. when it doesn't werk, i go to kroil. all you need is time and kroil to take apart rusted bolts. its great on heavy equipment.

i never had an aerosol kroil, just the old orange can. my dad finally thrown away the old orange can of kroil(it was new 30+ years ago) and it was replaced with new old orange can of kroil.

i never had marvel mystery oil. as a matter of fact, i looked up mmo on the interweby thingy and i found its website.

quote:

Originally posted by JGRaider:
Sorry craigster, that was a little strong, and uncalled for. I was speaking to vzerone specifically. I apologize for that poor response.

I should have said there is really no reason nowadays to use amonia based cleaners and solvents. Bore Tech Eliminator and Wipe Out do a much better job IMO.

No problema. I've used most all of the cleaners out there. I really think it's a 6 of 1 to 1/2 dozen of another issue. A good borescope would tell the tale.

quote:

Originally posted by craigster:

quote:

Originally posted by JGRaider:
Sorry craigster, that was a little strong, and uncalled for. I was speaking to vzerone specifically. I apologize for that poor response.

I should have said there is really no reason nowadays to use amonia based cleaners and solvents. Bore Tech Eliminator and Wipe Out do a much better job IMO.

No problema. I've used most all of the cleaners out there. I really think it's a 6 of 1 to 1/2 dozen of another issue. A good borescope would tell the tale.

I don't know if you have a borescope, but let me tell you that you will see things you don't want to see. I'm almost sorry I bought one. You're right though they will tell the tale. I agree with you on bore cleaners also.

Yep, the exact reason I don't want/need a bore scope. Most all of my rifles shoot very well without one.

quote:

Originally posted by craigster:
Yep, the exact reason I don't want/need a bore scope. Most all of my rifles shoot very well without one.

Even on a little used good rifle they look like a sewer pipe LOL

Frankinthelaurels
So what was the trigger issue created by Kroil?

quote:

Originally posted by TCLouis:
Frankinthelaurels
So what was the trigger issue created by Kroil?

This is from Snipershide.com:


Jan 12, 2010

#16

Re: Being stupidly sloppy with Kroil....

Kroil will also gum up your trigger assembly if oiled and put up for awhile. ( 1 year + )

I myself can't comment as I don't use Kroil oil. They were also talking about Kroil dissolving the bedding of their rifles. More then one guy.

I use Singer sewing machine oil on my trigger assembly. Very light + it won't gum or freeze.

Most any oil will work with JB and remember squeeky clean bores are only good for one shot and no bear has ever been killed by clean bore! I would not hesitate to use any of the wonder drugs mentioned on this thread with JB...overcleaning bores is a mistake and you don't need the best, and how many even know which one is best..I don't and don't care if it cleans off the top layer Im good with that..I buy the cheapest I can find.

quote:

Originally posted by .22-10-45:
Just wondering how Marvel Mystery Oil would compare if substituted for Kroil Oil in conjunction with JB compound in bore cleaning?

Kroil left on anything turns to a brown STICKEY SHIT!
Only used it on a firearm 1 time never again. MMO or ATF would be far superior in my opinion.

This Video is sorta interesting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dObEK7V-TFU

I worked at a power co. The linemen would use aerokroil to get the nuts loose on a bad transformer that had been hanging in the elements for forty plus years. I have used 50/50 acetone/atf to aid in getting the blades of my finish mower, worked great!

Skip Otto, an old benchrester use to recommend 3-in -one oil.

I use Remoil mixed with JB to thin it out.

Works great.

I liked the old Birchwood Casey brand SHEATH.

It doesn't leave a film like Kroil.

I took the gas port/flash suppressor off of one of those compact M1a's that sat unused for 2 years. It was still wet with kroil.

Kroil became commonly used for bore cleaning with the advent of Moly coated bullets. A couple of Kroil soaked patches followed by solvent works well. If you are not using Moly, forget about Kroil in the bore.