Hello am saving up for a decent knife for skinning and field dressing deer.
I am leaning towards the
Gerber - Freeman folder drop point
But am really interested in what your experience recommends

What RC would be the best?
Are folding lock knives a good choice?

Regards Mick

I`d stay away from the folders simply because they seem to pick up blood and other gunk in the handle and pivot and are a royal pain to clean, especially in the field.
I like some of the Bark River designs in factory offerings. They use carbon steel so you need to keep them clean and dry but they hold a very good edge and are a lot of knife for the money. BenchMade, Camulas (sp?)Cold Steel and others are makeing nice knifes too.
There are lots of custom makers out there also that are reasonable in price and build very good knifes.
Your question about RC I read as being in reguard to blade hardness. Be aware that the type of steel and grind have as much effect on edge holding as hardness. The differing steel types also work better at various hardness, some get brittle when too hard and tend to chip, other become too hard to sharpen past certain points.

I carry double bladed folders now. The straight blade knives are not nearly as safe.

One blade is a regular one and the other is serrated. I use the serrated knife for getting thru the hair, skin and sternum.

Mine were made by Coleman. Don't know if they make them anymore. I just use them now and don't think about knives much.

I would never use a folder for dressing any game. What do you do with that bloddy thing when done? Put in your pocket??? I have wtched too many hunters try and wipe them off, then ask me to hold it for them because they didn't know what to do with it.

Elkman,

If you must know I fold the knife up and put it in the sheath.

Then when I get time I wash it in the sink with warm water and soap.

Thanks for the replys. Yes my reference to 'RC' was to do with steel hardness. I want a knife that with work I can get very sharp and that will hold for a long time. I can take all the time I need to sharpen it before hunting but don't want to be sharpening while hunting.

I have noticed a lot of the knives I am looking at have a gut hook as optional. Are they worth getting? Does having that steel cut out weaken the blade or affect it when sliding between the meat and skin?

Gut hooks are fairly worthless IMO. I'd also advise to stay away from folders, but, then again, I've field dressed about 20 deer and a number of turkeys with a Leatherman. You could use a piece of broken glass if you felt like it.

I'd get a Scandinavian knife of the sandvik steel with the Scandinavian grind. They're not knives you have to "save up" for but they are very good quality.

Sharpening is a cinch with these knives, so it's not something to dread.

I've seen several hundred deer cleaned and have never seen one cleaned with anything but a folding knife except by my brother-in-law who is a butcher and shows up with a whole briefcase full of knives.

If you're field dressing a deer you will want to have a bucket of water or a body of water at hand. You should continually clean the blood, hair etc off your knife by violently "swishing" it around in the water and rubbing it off with your fingers or a toothbrush (excellent if you have one).

When you're done clean it as best you can in the water and when you get home use the kitchen sink and/or the dishwasher to get it clean. Once again a toothbrush is very helpful.

I'm sure that folders aren't the best choice but in my world it's the sharpest folder in someone's pocket that get's used to clean the deer and that's usually one of my Gerber 500's which I keep sharp with my Lansky Standard model.

This year it'll likely be my Griptillian and I can't wait to see how it performs.

$bob$

If you are presistant you can find good deals on premium knives on E-Bay. From factory blems to abused old hunters.

I carry pumas. I've found several that were scratched up & not of interest to collectors. A little TLC and a good stone and you have a fine toll at a fracton of "new".

I carry a 4" drop point & a 3.5 folder hunting. The straight edge is fine for one deer. I the folder is there if I need it. Yes, the folder is a PIB to clean but, inthe big picture it isn't enough of an issue to worry about for a hunter that is onlt dealing with one animal. I can see how it would not be a good choice for a guide.

I carry a small plastic bag stick it in when done clean it up later

My most used knife for cleaning deer, and everything else for that matter, is a Schrade/Uncle Henry/Old Timer/Case three blade Stockman.

It's all the knife you'll ever need and the best part is, you won't cry if you leave it lay by a gut pile. They can be found on sale for under $15.00. Drop it in a pocket or in your pack and forget about until it's time to use it. You don't have to worry about touching up the blades immediately either, just switch to one of the others.

I generally use the largest of the three blades for the cleaning chores and the sheep's foot blade works great for skinning.

Thanks everyone for your comments
I won't be getting the gut hook on my blade.
As for the folder vs fixed I think it will come down to price in the end.
One thing I have picked up on is that if you are a guide or going to do lots of this probably better of to use a fixed blade knife. I am just a recreational deer hunter who has to eat the deer in the freezer before I will kill another so good quality steel for the best value available will be more important than brand and configuration.
Will start cruising the web and knife shows for specials.
Thanks
robe

quote:

I am just a recreational deer hunter who has to eat the deer in the freezer before I will kill another

I am also. For a weekend Deer hunt, I head home after the kill tp get the meat cut0up & frozen so I don't worry about some blod or hairin the folder channel.

My tip, open it up run it though the dishwasher(pull the hair of 1st ) the sharpen and oil the blade for your next safari.

The simpler you keep your hunts the more you enjoy them.

http://www.grohmannknives.com/pages/outdoor.html

I like the Grohmann #1 and #3 knives. 4 inch quality bldes. Reasonable price (~50-60 usd, or kits in the $45 range), flat ground blade option. Add the overflap leather sheath, you have a solid, practical, quality knive. The #3 has been the standard knife of the Canadian forces for 40 years. Made in Canada.

Also, Cold Steel Master huntern(stainless) for ~$ 60 (don't like the sheath). A Spydeco Bill Moran Drop Point Hunter is aces with its ~4" S30V steel blade for $50. Also, the SOG X-42 field knife with S30v steel (not BG-42, it has some edge chipping issues) 5" blade is great for~$95. They stpped making them, so look fast for the S30V blade on the X-42.

You can spend more, but a simple Mora blade with 4-5 inch carbon steel (laminate) is tough and sharp, for~ $15. I bought a couple 10+ years ago for something like $7. No complaints, and they are quality knives.

http://209.35.185.42/ShopSite/Spyderco_FB02_Bill_Moran_Drop_Point_Blade.html

Correction, Moran blade is VG-10 stanless.

http://www.theknifeconnection.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4307 SOG X-42 field knife[URL=http://www.theknifeconnection.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4307]SOG x-42 field knife[/URL

After too many years of switching from knife to knife, I'm back where I started with a Grohmann #1 in carbon steel. It holds an edge well, is easy to resharpen, works like a charm for most everything, and doesn't weigh much or feel like I'm toting a machete. Coupled with a small pocketknife, it's hard to beat. It's one drawback, that doesn't bother me at all, is that it is carbon steel. If you don't clean it up when you get back, it'll rust.

The Grohmann's now have an option of carbon or high carbon stainless blades.They come in the traditional saber grind, and now flat grind. I use a #3 stainless most often, with the overflap sheath (#3a?). They also have options for handle material from rosewood, to micarta, stag, jigged bone, and water buffalo horn.

The stainless high carbon is similar to a 440A or AUS 6 type alloym but not exactly. Mine sharpens easily, and holds an endge well. I haven't had to touch it up in the field, but I carry a small stone "in case."

I like simple knives. The blade gets too big over 5". I like drop point style fixed blades as they run smooth upside down (edge up) while you gut a deer. The tip doesn't snag or poke, like a clip point. The SOG x-42 field knife borders on the "too rakish" for me, but it is a great knife. I bit big at over 10" long, but it feels good in your hand edge up or edge down.

Glad to see another Grohmann user on board. Hope there are others. Solid knife. Classy, non-rambo, and "feels good" in your hand.

Hello All
Thanks for the replies. Have bought my deer knife.
Couldn't get past my desire for a folding knife and a good quality stainless steel.
Have ended up going for the Spyderco Manix.
S30V steel, drop point blade, solid lock and good non slip handle and egonomics.
It is razor sharp but not hair popping sharp. I am sure a good carbon steel would be shaprer however it push cuts paper very well. I will be interested to see how it goes holding its edge on deer. It hasn't dulled yet so I have know idea how it sharpens.

On another forum I was recommended a few fixed blade knives in D2 steel and although they looked great and were a lot cheaper they weren't quite what I was after. That Spyderco fixed blade s30v also looks very good value.


regards
robe

Hard to beat a gool old Buck 110 Folding hunter. Been around forever because they work so good.

I've had and used Cold Steel,Gerber,Grohmann,Spydeco/Moran.Currently I like Bark River Knife and Tool Huntsman

I have a Buck and Puma folder but do most of my butchering with butchers knives made by Victorinox and Dick.

The butchers knives are cheaper to buy and easy to touch the blade up in the field- something that is just about impossible on a Puma because of blade hardness.

I am also not going to cry myself to sleep if I loose a knife in the scrub.

Bob Dozier. The last knife you will ever need.

Perry

Y'know a deer is a purty small animal when you get down to it. Just about any knife will work--where you start to run into problems is Moose and Elk. The larger animals will really test your knife for you.

the chef

has anyone mentioned the cold steel master hunter with the carbon blade? Its a good knife for the price IMO.

Puma hunters companion, Buck skinner, and a Blackjack Classic blades Trail guide when they were made in Effingham.Il. All three are great knives also have a Brownung 3 blade folder.

The one thing I never saw anyone mention is making your own knife. At the least, you can choose a blade and add the handle of your choice. It makes for quite a bit of pride. I find this is a good place for supplies:http://www.texasknife.com/store/s-pages/TKS_MainframeStore.htm Try it sometime.

I use a Remington big game knife works very well for me, I must have feild dressed some wear around 50 deer with it so far. Holds a great edge saw blade is very handy.

Chris Reeve Skinner !

Look, ultimately you can either buy a few "decent" or "good" knives in your lifetime or one REALLY GREAT INDESTRUCTIBLE KNIFE. The Ubejane from CR fits in the latter category.

http://chrisreeve.com/skinner.htm

quote:

Originally posted by PWN375:
Bob Dozier. The last knife you will ever need.

Perry

Amen Boet - God loves old Bob.

Used a folding Boker (Germany) to skin a Topi in Africa. Took me several hours taking it apart and cleaning each internal piece as well as well as all the nooks and crannies to get it to fold and function correctly. I'll go with a straight blade next time I skin an animal in Africa.

I quite agree with catboat. I use a Grohmann's original, a Marble, and one of my three Moras. I think Sportsman's Guide sells the Mora for 10 bucks. You can spend a lot more $$ and not get a better knife than the Grohmann's or the Mora. Try a Mora, what have you got to lose?

quote:

Originally posted by catboat:
http://www.grohmannknives.com/pages/outdoor.html

I like the Grohmann #1 and #3 knives.
You can spend more, but a simple Mora blade with 4-5 inch carbon steel (laminate) is tough and sharp, for~ $15. I bought a couple 10+ years ago for something like $7. No complaints, and they are quality knives.

I've cleaned many deer with lockback knives that worked fine.The last several years I use either a Cutco with a 4" fixed blade or a Cold Steel Master Hunter,both of these work great.

Folders are too much of a hassle to properly clean to be the "ideal" Deer knife, but they will certainly work.
For an inexpensive knife it's hard to beat the Cold Steel master hunter. Decent steel and nearly indestructable.
My personal all-around favorite is a FallKniven F-1. It's just a little handier and better made than the Cold Steel knife and has much better steel. It's also nearly indestructable.
For a pure cutting instrument a Bob Dozier skinner is about perfect - but don't use it for a pry-bar.
I've used all three in the field, the Dozier cuts the best, the Fallkniven is a little stonger if you need chop and hack, and the Cold Steel is the best bargain............DJ

you should have a set of two knives for deer work. One for gutting and skinning and one for caping if you are going to skin the head for a mount.

Check out Dunn's Knives. Extremely good quality, reasonable price, and I think still available at Cabelas.

My question to those who say a folder gets "gunked" up when field dressing an animal would be, why does yours get "gunked" up?

I've been cleaning deer for 40 years with folding pocket knives (along with some fixed blade knives) and the only thing that gets meat, blood or hair on it is the blade. Oh some blood and hair gets on the handle from my hands, but I've never had to dig anything out of the knife.

Just curious,

TH

quote:

Originally posted by Aquavit:
Gut hooks are fairly worthless IMO. I'd also advise to stay away from folders, but, then again, I've field dressed about 20 deer and a number of turkeys with a Leatherman. You could use a piece of broken glass if you felt like it.

I'd get a Scandinavian knife of the sandvik steel with the Scandinavian grind. They're not knives you have to "save up" for but they are very good quality.

Sharpening is a cinch with these knives, so it's not something to dread.

Marttiini M571 Puukko



Less than $20, with a scandi grind and forged Finnish carbon steel blade.

I have knives that cost me from $350 down and this is one of the best ever and it is tough as hell. I must admit however I get strange looks in camp when I have a $4K rifle and a $15 dollar knife.

I have a few on order now to add to my Moras in my backpacks and truck etc.

I have not used them on an animal larger than a 200 pound black bear or wild hog, so you might need more for a moose?

http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/827160/

It worked over a young goat tonight and I am hooked!

One of the best knives i've used on moose is a Helle Eggen, cost about $55 and i was able to skin and quarter a whole moose without resharpening it. I'm a custom knife nut now but I still use that knife every chance I get.

quote:

Originally posted by M70Nut:
One of the best knives i've used on moose is a Helle Eggen, cost about $55 and i was able to skin and quarter a whole moose without resharpening it. I'm a custom knife nut now but I still use that knife every chance I get.

Helle knives are awesome, but I am the same about customs and adding your fav pattern with metal and custom wood.....problem is my knife above cuts up game as good or better....like you said about the Helle