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Cutting the outline
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I have been trying to use a cut off wheel to outline a blade shape from some hardened steel stock.

Is there a better way to do this without investing in a cutting torch?

Thanks

BH63


Hunting buff is better than sex!
 
Posts: 2205 | Registered: 29 December 2015Reply With Quote
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Use as small a piece of steel as you can for your chosen blank, and then grind off the excess with your belt grinder.
 
Posts: 2059 | Location: Mpls., MN | Registered: 28 June 2014Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by lindy2:
Use as small a piece of steel as you can for your chosen blank, and then grind off the excess with your belt grinder.


And now a knifemaker too!!


Jim Kobe
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Posts: 5500 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Details about your stock material would help.
Can you anneal it?



Don't limit your challenges . . .
Challenge your limits


 
Posts: 4227 | Location: TN USA | Registered: 17 March 2002Reply With Quote
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To be honest, I don’t really know the specifics of the steel.

It started life as a farming implement In Thailand. It looks like a cross between a machete and a meat cleaver.

It has way too much material to grind it into a knife shape. It would be like trying to grind a meat cleaver down into a stiletto.

I’ve tried to start outline with a cutoff wheel but it really is pretty hard metal. So far I have just etched it a little.

I would like to keep that hardness if possible.

Thanks for your responses.

BH63


Hunting buff is better than sex!
 
Posts: 2205 | Registered: 29 December 2015Reply With Quote
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Know anyone with a waterjet?


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"Listen more than you speak, and you will hear more stupid things than you say."
 
Posts: 705 | Location: near Albany, NY | Registered: 06 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Not that it helps your situation, but most of us don't start with hardened steel. Typically do the stock removal, grind rough bevels, and then send it out to be heat treated. I will also polish flats, spine, and underside removing any scratches before it goes, because they are a lot easier to get out in an unhardened state.

Lee
baumgartknives@gmail.com
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Posts: 570 | Location: Vancouver, WA | Registered: 28 June 2010Reply With Quote
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Plasma cutter.
 
Posts: 19356 | Location: wis | Registered: 21 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Thanks guys. I kind of understand the issue now.

Methinks I am in for a slow patient process.

Cheers,

BH63


Hunting buff is better than sex!
 
Posts: 2205 | Registered: 29 December 2015Reply With Quote
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If I want to use plasma cutter to roughly cut the shape, how close or far to be from intended shape? (how much steel left there for grinder/file removal)? Or how far will plasma cutter damage the steel? (I want to cut it annealed).

Jiri
 
Posts: 2072 | Location: Czech Republic | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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I use a plasma cutter in my Sheet Metal business to cut 16G. black iron for kitchen hood vents. It will cut to the line + one should clamp a guide for the tip to follow. Give yourself a bit of extra, easy to cut off a little more but hell to put back. Also if you're buying a unit get one with the compressor in the unit. It costs a bit more but will keep your PSI correct whereas tying in your your regular compressor very well might not give you your correct PSI.


Never mistake motion for action.
 
Posts: 17357 | Location: Austin, Texas | Registered: 11 March 2013Reply With Quote
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I have access to CNC plasma cutter, so I can draw anything (in CAD or whatever can save DXF file). Just import that file into plasma cutter control computer, set few parameters and it will cut automatically. I like that ;-)
 
Posts: 2072 | Location: Czech Republic | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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