I have just bought a British falling block on Fields patent in 450 N.E.
There's not a lot loading data on the internet. The one I see varies from fast gunpowder to slow. How should I think when it comes to loading large straight cases such as example 450 N.E?
I knew that faster the gunpowder gives, the less recoil. But what do they like best for accuracy?

I have had good luck with IMR/hodgdon 4350 for the heavy weights and for some of the lighter weight bullets, Reloader 15.

I’d like to see the rifle!
It is very likely that your rifle - if in original configuration, is a 450 black powder express.
The Field falling block patent is from 1877 and I’ve yet to see an original rifle in a nitro cartridge. Holland & Holland built some 303s up to 1896, but those were probably for some powder such as Axite, not sure.
Please post some photos.
Don’t want you blowing yourself up!

Same as Huvius, mine is a 450#2 musket but it may also be a NfB loading. Hate to see a nice rifle damaged, bone and flesh can grow back.

Graeme Wright's "Shooting the British Double Rifle" has load data for the .450 3 1/4 in smokeless, nitro for black, and black powder.

You can be calm, boys!
It's a unfinished mechanism, you can say in withe, which is being nitro proofed in 2017.
Someone started a project that I'm going to finish.
I knew that there is some issue with the cocking.
I have not seen it IRL yet.
Back to the question: do straight wall cases like fast, medium or slow burning powder?

quote:

Originally posted by thecanadian:
I have had good luck with IMR/hodgdon 4350 for the heavy weights and for some of the lighter weight bullets, Reloader 15.

Thanks, How mych do you pour

The best answer to your question is that big, but relatively low-pressure cartridges like the 450 NE require different loading techniques than most modern cartridges. It's not a question of fast, medium or slow powders, but how to use those powders in a way that will insure consistent ignition and reliable performance.

As Bill mentions above, by far the best source of information about all this is Graeme Wright's book "Shooting the British Double Rifle". Medium powders such as Reloader 15 can work well if you use a filler material to take up the empty space between the powder and bullet. Slower powders like 4350 or 4831 work much better for filling the case, but may leave a fair amount of unburned powder in the barrel. Each powder has its own advantages and disadvantages.

I can't stress enough how important Wright's book is in understanding how these cartridges work and how best to reload them. He also writes very well and his book is very enjoyable to read! I don't know if there is a Swedish translation of his book, but I would bet that your knowledge of English is more than adequate for the original work.

And here's my Field rifle in 500-450 No.1 BPE 2-3/4" :

Thanks for the advice on book. I'm going to look for it. I have looked a bit in Grodon's Reloading Tool and got good results that match the recipes I have seen.
You have a really beautiful weapon. Something like that, I have imagined mine to look like.
I'm still waiting for my action. It would be interesting to see what the interior parts look like. Is it difficult to disassemble?

The Field action is much easier to take apart (and put back together!) than most other falling blocks, mainly because there is no complex linkage between the operating lever and the block. There's a screw on the left side of the action which acts as a 'stop' to limit the upward motion of the block. Remove that screw and the block comes right out through the top. Everything else is then easily accessible.

Unlike most falling block actions where the operating lever is connected to the block and directly pushes the block up and down, the Field action breech block has a deep groove cut in its side that is engaged by a stout pin on the lever. Moving the lever back and forth cams the block up and down by the pin moving in the shaped groove in the block. Hard to describe, but easy to see with the block removed.

quote:

Originally posted by 375HH:

quote:

Originally posted by thecanadian:
I have had good luck with IMR/hodgdon 4350 for the heavy weights and for some of the lighter weight bullets, Reloader 15.

Thanks, How mych do you pour

I am a bit reluctant to give out the recipes I have worked up in my No. 1 given your rifles age and questionable strength. I would follow Steve and Bill's advice and read Graeme Wright's book.

quote:

Originally posted by 375HH:
It would be interesting to see what the interior parts look like.

I’d be interested to see if the firing pin has been bushed.
My Field’s pin is like a dull nail!
Also, there isn’t much leverage for extraction with these actions.
They do have a double leg extractor, but the actual extraction is at the last bit of lever travel.
A good whap on the lever with the heel of your thumb is all one can do for a sticky case.

If you haven't looked at them consider using Nitro for Black loads using IMR 4198. They are effective and fun to shoot. Graeme Wright describes them in his book.

Options will be the 4350s, 4831s, and Rl-15 in those big English calivbers, 4831 produces more recoil if thats a problem..

I don't quote loads, but its easy to work up a max load in the old guns..There is a formula for that and I can't recall it right off hand, maby someone can give that to you..It usually a starting load..If no results I will try and find it for you, its bound to be somewhere in that maze fo junk in my shop...