THE ACCURATERELOADING.COM BULLETMAKING FORUM


Moderators: Canuck
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
.333 Jeffrey!
 Login/Join
 
One of Us
posted
I am about to have myself a .333 jeffrey rifle made and I am looking for a way to make my own .333cal bullets! I know I can swage .338cal bullets down, but what I want is natually the 300grain Roundnose bullet it shall be regulated for! I my question is, is there anywhere where I can buy .333cal cuppertubing?.
Is there anybody besides Woodleigh and Hawk that makes .333cal bullets?.
I have been tolled that a company called "DKT" also should make .333cal bullets, but I can`t seem to find that company anywhere?

Thanks!


DRSS: HQ Scandinavia. Chapters in Sweden & Norway
 
Posts: 2805 | Location: Denmark | Registered: 09 June 2005Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
I seem to remember Woodleigh made .333 bullets (?).

Additionally, I think Kynamco makes .333 Jeffrey ammunition.
 
Posts: 1289 | Location: England | Registered: 07 October 2004Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
I have thought of swaging .30US Carbine brass down to.333cal, and then fill them up with lead!
I believe Corbin could work something out for me!


DRSS: HQ Scandinavia. Chapters in Sweden & Norway
 
Posts: 2805 | Location: Denmark | Registered: 09 June 2005Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
If you get into swaging, you can buy a jacket making kit, and this will allow you to start with .375 OD tubing (1/4 inch), and draw it down to .333. It may take two draw dies to take it down that far.

I make .358 jackets out of 3/8 tubing.

As to looking for a particular bullet maker, you should check the listing of custom bullet makers on the Corbin web site ( http://www.corbins.com ). Another good listing of bullet makers is on SST's Rifle Room ( http://sst.benchrest.com )


Hunting is Exciting! Bolt Actions are BORING!
Don't Mix the Two!
 
Posts: 190 | Location: Manotick, Ontario, Canada | Registered: 24 September 2000Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
quote:
I am about to have myself a .333 jeffrey rifle made and I am looking for a way to make my own .333cal bullets! I know I can swage .338cal bullets down, but what I want is natually the 300grain Roundnose bullet it shall be regulated for! I my question is, is there anywhere where I can buy .333cal cuppertubing?.
Is there anybody besides Woodleigh and Hawk that makes .333cal bullets?.
I have been tolled that a company called "DKT" also should make .333cal bullets, but I can`t seem to find that company anywhere?

Thanks!


Just order the jacket cups pre made from Butch
Hairfield, Harrell D (GE Energy)
harrell.hairfield@ps.ge.com
 
Posts: 1557 | Location: Home of the original swage | Registered: 29 February 2004Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
quote:
Just order the jacket cups pre made from ButchHairfield, Harrell D (GE Energy)
harrell.hairfield@ps.ge.com
.

Thanks a lot Smiler!


DRSS: HQ Scandinavia. Chapters in Sweden & Norway
 
Posts: 2805 | Location: Denmark | Registered: 09 June 2005Reply With Quote
new member
posted Hide Post
Jens,
I use a Corbins .338 RN set and then run the bullet thru a .333 Bullet Reduction Die. Works for me. I haven't tried it with a 300 grain slug, thou. (I don't know what the upper weight limit is for that .338 set.) Having a .333 set built would be a bit costly due to its limited use.( I'm speaking of the US market).
 
Posts: 10 | Location: No. Minnesota | Registered: 26 June 2005Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Paul S.:
Jens,
I use a Corbins .338 RN set and then run the bullet thru a .333 Bullet Reduction Die. Works for me. I haven't tried it with a 300 grain slug, thou. (I don't know what the upper weight limit is for that .338 set.) Having a .333 set built would be a bit costly due to its limited use.( I'm speaking of the US QUOTE]

Hi Paul!

Do you have a 333 jeffery?

My plan are to make a copy of the original splitbullets, softnosed, hollowpoints and solids for the .333Jeffery!. I am willing to invest quite a few money in this project but first of all I need the rifle(actually still waiting for the barrel Frowner). I think the .333 has a really good potentiel with the long bullets it`s carring!. With modern powders it will get close to the .338win if needed!.


DRSS: HQ Scandinavia. Chapters in Sweden & Norway
 
Posts: 2805 | Location: Denmark | Registered: 09 June 2005Reply With Quote
new member
posted Hide Post
Jens,
No, I just make the bullets. The reduction is about at the limit of recommended maximum allowable (.006"), but if the bullets are core bonded you have an additional margin of "safety" where the jacket doesn't come loose from the core. How do you intend to make the solids? And, can you describe what a " split bullet" is?
 
Posts: 10 | Location: No. Minnesota | Registered: 26 June 2005Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Paul S.:
Jens,
No, I just make the bullets. The reduction is about at the limit of recommended maximum allowable (.006"), but if the bullets are core bonded you have an additional margin of "safety" where the jacket doesn't come loose from the core. How do you intend to make the solids? And, can you describe what a " split bullet" is?


Split Bullet... Partioned or H cored bullet ?

With your soilds are you going to swage them on a Hydro or Hydra ..Corbin's or RCEco swage press
or are thay a turn based soild ( lead cored )
?

Swaging a soild is not really all that hard from rod stock verse/ cnc lathing them.
In fact it just might be a bit easyer to swage the solid rather then turn it .

sounds like you have it all wrapped up ..

jens ?
Do you have a manul press or a hyro operated press or do you have one of the big press's like the Hydroswage or the Hydraswage
ones Dave Corbins->Corbin and the other is Richard Corbin's->RCE.co

I just bought a new one from richard the hydra swage model it was suppoes to go to A-Square Firearms company
but thay backed out so i bought it .

great press it has all the bells and whisles

Martin
 
Posts: 1557 | Location: Home of the original swage | Registered: 29 February 2004Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
HI!
A splitnosed bullet is a bullet were one see the fragmentationslines!
In WW.Greener book"the gun and its devolpment" on page 665 down the right corner is a splitnosed bullet! I shows the fragmentationline going down the bullet! In Jon Speed book "the original Oberndorf sporting rifle" page 279 sees a .333 Jeffery with splitnose aswell!. I have myself some original
hollowpoint bullet for my Mauser in .318cal where there are made fragmentation lines!. They weigh 219grain!. I have not yet purchased any bulletswaging stuff yet, as there are many considerations to make such as having a hydralic presses or whatever that might serve for the best!.


DRSS: HQ Scandinavia. Chapters in Sweden & Norway
 
Posts: 2805 | Location: Denmark | Registered: 09 June 2005Reply With Quote
new member
posted Hide Post
jens, it sounds like you may be interested in Corbin's DDS-1 ( see http://www.corbins.com/drawdies.htm#sdd ) It's a bit expensive at $239-296 US.
 
Posts: 10 | Location: No. Minnesota | Registered: 26 June 2005Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Paul S.:
jens, it sounds like you may be interested in Corbin's DDS-1 ( see http://www.corbins.com/drawdies.htm#sdd ) It's a bit expensive at $239-296 US.


I MUST ONE, EXPENSIVE OR NOT!

Thanks paul!.


DRSS: HQ Scandinavia. Chapters in Sweden & Norway
 
Posts: 2805 | Location: Denmark | Registered: 09 June 2005Reply With Quote
one of us
Picture of mbogo375
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by jens poulsen:
My plan are to make a copy of the original splitbullets, softnosed, hollowpoints and solids for the .333Jeffery!. I am willing to invest quite a few money in this project but first of all I need the rifle(actually still waiting for the barrel Frowner). I think the .333 has a really good potentiel with the long bullets it`s carring!. With modern powders it will get close to the .338win if needed!.


Jens,

Welcome to the world of the 333 Jeffery. As you probably already know, many original 333's were regulated for the 250 grain bullets instead of the 300's, but if you are having a new rifle built this is not a factor.

The splits were not highly thought of in their day, as they opened much to quickly for reliable use on medium or large game (much to the surprise of several hunters that came to untimely ends while trying to use them on dangerous game).

As for solids, IF you want to actually use these bullets on dangerous game (which would not be allowed in most countries due to minimum caliber laws), and if you want to go with a traditional design, you really should consider a steel core solid. There are other methods used by swagers to strengthen the jacket (reversed smaller diameter jacket inside the full caliber jacket, etc), but in my non-scientific opinion, I would feel much better with a steel core or monolithic solid if I was eye-to-eye with an unhappy cape buffalo. I have even had .375 Hornady steel core solids bend and fish-tail on buffalo.

Incidentally, the case capacity of the 333 Jeffery in almost identical to the 338 Win Mag. In a newly built rifle with a good action you might expect nearly equal velocity at equal pressure, but with the 333 the limiting factor is the presently available brass. Most of it is pretty soft, and not the ideal for high pressure loads.

Another problem relates to chamber dimensions compared to brass dimensions. There is a lot of variation between the two, not to mention the sometimes poor match between chamber and die dimensions. I can actually reform and shorten 330 Dakota brass for my Jeffery, which makes for stronger and more durable brass, but this may not work with some chambers.

Most any of the 250 grain or heavier .338 bullets work well after being run through a reducing die. I have found that it is much easier to do this in two steps (first to .335, then to .333) than to try to go all the way down to .333 in one pass.

I have not tried it yet, but if you want to use 300 grain bullets you could try reducing the .338 diameter 300 grain Sierra Matchkings. You could even get a point forming die to produce a less "pointy" ogive after drawing down to .333. I am actually swaging 250 grain .375 Sierra boat tail soft points up to .379 in a round nose point forming die by RCE for use in a 375x2.5" Flanged Nitro Express double, and they come out as nicely formed round nose flat base bullets Wink.

The most accurate factory .333 bullets that I have tried are the Woodleighs, and I would not hesitate to use these on large game AT ORIGINAL VELOCITY. The Hawks are also accurate, but a little softer than the Woodleighs (will work great on small to medium game if you stay with original velocities). If you want to up the velocity you might try drawing down the 300 grain .338 Woodleigh, as they should be designed to perform at higher velocity.

After saying all this, I am sure that I haven't deterred you from wanting to get a swage set and make your own, but I just wanted to share some of my experiences with the .333 Jeffery.


Good luck,
Jim


 
Posts: 1206 | Location: Georgia | Registered: 21 July 2000Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by mbogo375:
quote:
Originally posted by jens poulsen:
My plan are to make a copy of the original splitbullets, softnosed, hollowpoints and solids for the .333Jeffery!. I am willing to invest quite a few money in this project but first of all I need the rifle(actually still waiting for the barrel Frowner). I think the .333 has a really good potentiel with the long bullets it`s carring!. With modern powders it will get close to the .338win if needed!.


Jens,

Welcome to the world of the 333 Jeffery. As you probably already know, many original 333's were regulated for the 250 grain bullets instead of the 300's, but if you are having a new rifle built this is not a factor.

The splits were not highly thought of in their day, as they opened much to quickly for reliable use on medium or large game (much to the surprise of several hunters that came to untimely ends while trying to use them on dangerous game).

As for solids, IF you want to actually use these bullets on dangerous game (which would not be allowed in most countries due to minimum caliber laws), and if you want to go with a traditional design, you really should consider a steel core solid. There are other methods used by swagers to strengthen the jacket (reversed smaller diameter jacket inside the full caliber jacket, etc), but in my non-scientific opinion, I would feel much better with a steel core or monolithic solid if I was eye-to-eye with an unhappy cape buffalo. I have even had .375 Hornady steel core solids bend and fish-tail on buffalo.

Incidentally, the case capacity of the 333 Jeffery in almost identical to the 338 Win Mag. In a newly built rifle with a good action you might expect nearly equal velocity at equal pressure, but with the 333 the limiting factor is the presently available brass. Most of it is pretty soft, and not the ideal for high pressure loads.

Another problem relates to chamber dimensions compared to brass dimensions. There is a lot of variation between the two, not to mention the sometimes poor match between chamber and die dimensions. I can actually reform and shorten 330 Dakota brass for my Jeffery, which makes for stronger and more durable brass, but this may not work with some chambers.

Most any of the 250 grain or heavier .338 bullets work well after being run through a reducing die. I have found that it is much easier to do this in two steps (first to .335, then to .333) than to try to go all the way down to .333 in one pass.

I have not tried it yet, but if you want to use 300 grain bullets you could try reducing the .338 diameter 300 grain Sierra Matchkings. You could even get a point forming die to produce a less "pointy" ogive after drawing down to .333. I am actually swaging 250 grain .375 Sierra boat tail soft points up to .379 in a round nose point forming die by RCE for use in a 375x2.5" Flanged Nitro Express double, and they come out as nicely formed round nose flat base bullets Wink.

The most accurate factory .333 bullets that I have tried are the Woodleighs, and I would not hesitate to use these on large game AT ORIGINAL VELOCITY. The Hawks are also accurate, but a little softer than the Woodleighs (will work great on small to medium game if you stay with original velocities). If you want to up the velocity you might try drawing down the 300 grain .338 Woodleigh, as they should be designed to perform at higher velocity.

After saying all this, I am sure that I haven't deterred you from wanting to get a swage set and make your own, but I just wanted to share some of my experiences with the .333 Jeffery.


Good luck,
Jim


Jim .. Hi guy Smiler

If your making the bullets you need from larger diametered bullet and your using Richards Swage die set ..Why not go all the way and make up a good bullet to fill the gap most folks that own 333's find them self in ...
It would save me and everyone else time and trouble ...
You already have most of what you need for dies .

And i take it the press is a WallNut Hills

Come up with a good design based on what you already know of the 333 and sell a few to the guys that own the rifle ...

For Kudo and eland make a lighter jacket ... like a 0.040 jacket or 0.030 jacket
And for cape go a 0.040 turn based Guilded jacket ..C220 ... Its not really that hard to use the 0.040 guilded jacket and its as strong as a 0.070 jacket wall atleast.

I know that you already know theres a million ways to make a bullet but only a few of them will make a good bullet and only one or two of them make Great bullets . your one step ahead of the crowed guy .

Martin
 
Posts: 1557 | Location: Home of the original swage | Registered: 29 February 2004Reply With Quote
  Powered by Social Strata  
 


Copyright December 1997-2023 Accuratereloading.com


Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia