Anyone have some experience, comments on such products? I am trying to seal up so holes in tanks and have looked at using these super sealing tapes. I purchased the Gorilla Glue version and am using it to patch each side of holes in these tanks. The holes are small.
Some containers are old metal stock tanks, others plastic.

The tape is VERY sticky. It claims good use for outdoor applications such as I am using. Wondering how long it lasts?

I hope you get some good feedback on this. Looks like it works with multiple coats. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-i2T-mRcJw

I've been wanting to dip some tool handles in their liquid, but I don't know if that really works either. https://www.flexsealproducts.c...th-flex-seal-liquid/

I talked to a builder who tried it Ann, as I was curious too. He said it works..... but is a lot thinner then they show on the adds. If you cover it in several coats it seemed to work. How long??? It had been a year when I asked that question to him.

The liquid flex seal works. I used their white liquid flex seal on some spots on my basement window wells. Please be advised that it is NOT paintable. Not sure if that would be a deal breaker for anyone. Just advising you of the same.

Beats the hell out of buying a new tank.

Well, now I am looking for another option. One of these old tanks is just too rusted out along the bottom seam. I found that when I washed the dirt out of it yesterday. So, I thought, how about some pond liner material? Eish, that stuff is spendy too.

You might be able to fab a sheet metal patch, screw or pop rivet it over the damaged area, and solder the edges with this low temp multi-metal solder.

https://www.muggyweld.com/prod...u-1icRRoC6u0QAvD_BwE

Ann, let me know if you need some sheet metal patch pieces. I have a sheet metal shop as I think you know so that would be no problem. I've patched water tanks + silos over the years with good results. Don't worry about soldering, if the tank is old enough to rust then the solder wouldn't take anyway. A good sealant caulk bead then pop rivet the plate in place. Send me some plate dimensions + I'll see what I can do.

Try J B Weld it works great I patched my kids gas tank back when they had metal gas tanks on cars As far as flex seal for outdoors I have had back luck,if sun hits the seal it will flake off after about a month.

quote:

Originally posted by NormanConquest:
Ann, let me know if you need some sheet metal patch pieces. I have a sheet metal shop as I think you know so that would be no problem. I've patched water tanks + silos over the years with good results. Don't worry about soldering, if the tank is old enough to rust then the solder wouldn't take anyway. A good sealant caulk bead then pop rivet the plate in place. Send me some plate dimensions + I'll see what I can do.

Randy, the metal tanks are what I am trying to fix. The two big ones are really big. They are 8 feet long. The seams are gone on the one lying in a normal position especially around the curves. The two smaller tanks are 4 feet long but again, the issue is along the bottom seams.





I'm still looking at a liner option. To buy say, more IBC totes would be about the same cost as putting in pond liner material.

If I end up getting Biden money (after they pay off all the people in prison first) I will probably buy some pond liner.

We patched a a 4000 gal water tank at a local ranch i help out at from time to time. I drive the water truck on some nasty dirt roads to water cattle and wild life.
The fix is still holding up.
We did both the inside and outside.
We did a pond liner fix on a steel trough by using the flexseal to glue down the pond liner.
After it set up and dried we mixed enough sack create that was mixed with water seal to create a new bottom. Its working still in the calving pen.
coues
ds

Good work! I did a Lowes run today and picked up some pond liner big enough for the two 4 foot tanks. I will see how it looks before deciding to pay the big bucks for the 8 foot tanks. Structurally, despite their looks, they are sound, it's the bottom seal. Rained all day today and if it is dry tomorrow I will see how this looks.

There is a time in every piece of equipment's life that it needs to be replace.

Most of the time Jerry rigging N rigging or what ever you call is just temporary.

Most of the time it is more cost efficient to buy a new one.

Then the time money an effort to "fixing up" a piece of junk.

I'm with P-Dog.
those look like some real nice raised flower beds.
and yeah I know what those cost.

Ann, those are beyond a bit of patching. If only the bottom seal is in question then you might try a caulking like "Lexell", similar to silicone. I've had good results using it to seal roof flashings on galvalume roofs as one can not solder A/L. That is a temporary fix however + I know what p-dog makes sense, but I know from my own personal experience what the cost of metal has risen to in only Biden's first 65 days, with no relief in sight.

quote:

Originally posted by Lamar:
I'm with P-Dog.
those look like some real nice raised flower beds.
and yeah I know what those cost.

Yes, that is what they are for. Actually, garden vegetables. They system I use utilizes that black drain tubing in the bottom to make a water reservoir. Planting medium goes on top of the pipe. This photo shows the set up in a IBC tote half before the planting medium is added.



This system works so well I am converting all the old leaky tanks. Save me a lot of time. Instead of watering every day (very little rain here in the summer) I will only need to top off the reservoir weekly or more.

As I have mentioned before, that is how I do my tomatoes plants. I have a 14G. steel mesh (concrete mesh) that I made into 3' in diameter x 5' tall towers + plant the tomatoes just on the inside so they are easy to tie to the screen as they grow. In the center of the screen tower I have dug down to bury a 5 gallon plastic bucket (pickel,etc.) w/ holes drilled at the bottom. The roots go for the water source + establish deep roots with a minimal use of water. I use the same principle on my fruit trees; when planting install a 2" PVC pipe at the roots. Water goes right to the roots with no surface loss. An important issue in a Texas summer. Also Ann, you might consider asking the prices on lining your tanks with the guys who do those spray in bed liners for pick-ups. Just an idea.

I've looked at spray in liner. It's pretty expensive, I know there are a do-it-yourself kits out there but I do not believe they would stick well to such old tanks with rust.

I'll get it done though, somehow, someway. More than likely will be a pond liner.

I like your watering system for your 'maters, etc. The clay and rocks are so thick here I could not do that.

All but the eggs and mushrooms were grown in the totes.







I can't wait to dive into some more fresh tomatoes!

Yesterday I used a piece of that super seal tape to attempt a repair on a hose that has a pin prick hole in it. 100% fail. As soon as I turned the water on it drilled a hole right through the tape.

Ann. Got a powerful air compressor? Might try some ''rubberized auto undercoating'' (been round for several decades) - some is still doing it's job since the 60's. Worth a try on the steel after you get one of these plastic blaster units (see below) to get the rust off. I have a steel tank one and it just draws moisture in and then doesn't allow the gun to pull the media like it should. Make sure the media or sand is very dry. Two coats of RUC on both sides will do. The asphalt type undercoating is not recommended.

Le Lematec Sand Blaster Gun Kit

Ann, I am west of the I 35 corridor so we have a lot of rocks as well. It has taken many years of labor to remove them + to enrich the soil. This was originally ex-slave land that was deeded after the civil war. The government said they had to give the freed slaves 40 acres. They didn't stipulate what 40 acres. The existing farmers + ranchers were not going to give them the rich deep farmland east of the corridor. Its good soil now but it took years to get it to this point.

quote:

Originally posted by NormanConquest:
Ann, I am west of the I 35 corridor so we have a lot of rocks as well. It has taken many years of labor to remove them + to enrich the soil. This was originally ex-slave land that was deeded after the civil war. The government said they had to give the freed slaves 40 acres. They didn't stipulate what 40 acres. The existing farmers + ranchers were not going to give them the rich deep farmland east of the corridor. Its good soil now but it took years to get it to this point.

Oh, I get it. I'm pushing 60 now and not limber enough to pick thousands of rocks out of the clay pack. I want to keep gardening a long time yet so that is why I went to the large containers. I plan now for much older age. I should be all done with the garden infrastructure this spring and will only need to top off with manure from the rabbits and chickens. No tilling, no plowing, no rock picking and I won't have to water everyday. I'll still have to worry about chipmunks but my cheesy Gamo air rifle is up for that task.

quote:

Originally posted by custombolt:
Ann. Got a powerful air compressor? Might try some ''rubberized auto undercoating'' (been round for several decades) - some is still doing it's job since the 60's. Worth a try on the steel after you get one of these plastic blaster units (see below) to get the rust off. I have a steel tank one and it just draws moisture in and then doesn't allow the gun to pull the media like it should. Make sure the media or sand is very dry. Two coats of RUC on both sides will do. The asphalt type undercoating is not recommended.

Le Lematec Sand Blaster Gun Kit

Yeah, my air compressor isn't up to such work. It's pretty basic. I've looked at those truck bed liner kits but I think the metal tanks have too much rust. If I can get 3-5 years more out of them with a pond liner I will be quite happy.

The AS118 requires the following pressures.
Operating Pressure 90 PSI., Max to 150 PSI
Air Flow at 100 PSI 12 CFM

And THAT is why I have an inline compressor for my Plasma cutter + not being on my regular shop compressor that would require regulation. It's REALLY worth the extra $$$.