Perhaps an odd question, but a practical one.
How do you mark different loaded cartridges to distinguish one load from another?
eg: I have a 165 gr and a 180 grain load that shoot to the same point of impact and take them to the field with me.
Sometimes I want to use one and not the other (target, wounded animal, etc.), but they look too similar to tell apart without minute inspection.
Some people use nail varnish on the case head, others nickel brass for one, etc.
Practical suggestions please.

Sharpie markers, they come in a rainbow of colors.

And do not mark the case; mark the primer and write down the color code.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
And do not mark the case; mark the primer and write down the color code.

Good point. Sharpie markings on the brass can rub off relatively easily sometimes. It tends to remain longer on the primer.

The only cartridge for which I needed to distinguish loads was .375 H&H, and I did so by using brass with two different headstamps. I think this worked for me because .375 H&H is quite a forgiving cartridge. Not sure this system would work so easily with other calibres, but maybe worth a go. Also might help to weight sort brass of different headstamp first and only use those of almost identical weight.

I write on the bullet with a fine Sharpie.
On 30 cal and up I can weasel in the bullet, powder and charge.

Sharpie color code mark:
Ring both the primer and the bullet case mouth intersection.
The mark doesn't wipe out of these groves.

For my limited use in the field (solid vs softs), Nickel plated for one, brass for the other. Yes, I could tell by looking at the bullet, but its more glance at my cartridge belt and grab what I want.

I avoid different bullet weights for that reason... most of my different weight bullets look alike.

In my range ammo for experimenting, I use the fine sharpie and write the bullet, weight, powder, weight, and OAL. Totally useless in the field, but works on a range bench.

quote:

Originally posted by Kyler Hamann:
I write on the bullet with a fine Sharpie.
On 30 cal and up I can weasel in the bullet, power and charge.

That is too much fine writing for me.

For testing loads, I use a fine tip Sharpie and mark a code symbol on the primers and write the code on the box.

For hunting loads, I write the load on the box, including case manufacturer that is stamped on the case. I work up different loads in different manufacturer's cases, ie, a load with 168 grain bullets might be in R-P cases and ones with 180 grain bullets would be in WW cases.

I was making a suggestion for the OP.

I too, Write the charge weights of powder ladder reloads on the case.
And like the suggestion of using a different case head stamp to distinguish between similar looking hunting loads.

Thanks for the suggestions so far.

I just use a sharpie on my .243's. I usually write the powder and weight, bullet and grain and OAL.

Depending on the calibre this may or maynot work.You might load one bullet weight into a Win case and a different bullet in a rem case. Those headstamps never wear off

Or do what I do, put one load in the right side of the box, one load in the left. Tell yourself you will remember, and no worries.
Then later have to pull a bullet, or run it over the chronograph because you forgot which side is which.

quote:

Originally posted by theback40:
Or do what I do, put one load in the right side of the box, one load in the left. Tell yourself you will remember, and no worries.
Then later have to pull a bullet, or run it over the chronograph because you forgot which side is which.

Or, you knock the box over. Don't ask me how I know. Fortunately, it happened on a soft rug.

I use different colored sharpies and color the primers.

I like the thin sharpy on the bottom. I had 100 count box of 7mm Benchrest sure glad I wrote on every bottom.

I also make label inserts for the MTM boxes.

Sharpie on base. Different colors and patterns (I, X, etc.) for different loads. Some colors don't show up well.

All markings are noted in my reloading log book and often a note in the box.

I have been known to colorcode headstamps with permanent marker, and it rarely comes out again.

Lately, when working up loads I just write along the side of the case with that permanent marker and it generally stays there until I rub it off with some solvent. IIRC alcohol (methylated spirits) gets it off but, strangely, white gas (Shellite), won't, despite its formidable power as a degreaser.

quote:

Originally posted by craigster:
Sharpie markers, they come in a rainbow of colors.

Works like a charm....

You could always use a foolproof way of doing this.

Use different makes of brass.

Put a dab of cold bluing on the case head, stains it black instantly and does not rub off.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
And do not mark the case; mark the primer and write down the color code.

blue, red, green, black sharpie, single line across case/primer = load 1, case head all black = load #2, blue cross = load #3 etc.
put same color coded symbol in load book.

I color the entire primer; no secret code. If you need more than 6 variables in one outing, I don't know what to say.
Coloring the case head black is exactly the opposite of what we need; only gives two choices and is permanently marked.

Partialy color blind here :-) but I can see at least 3 colors + black + natural

I really wish that some one would come up with a printer that would print bullet-powder and charge-primer number of times the case had been loaded and date quickly on the case so when I ran across ammo I loaded a decade earlier I would know when I loaded it and what it was loaded with.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
And do not mark the case; mark the primer and write down the color code.

What do you see as the problem with marking the case? Is it that the marks might last more than that loading and give confusion? I know it is virtually impossible to remove marker from headstamps but can get it off from along the sides.

I only carry one load when I hunt.
When I'm at the my bench I only have one load at a time to test. My bench is beside my house. It's only a 50 yard range but works for primary load development. Once a load shows promise there do I take it to a longer range. Then I label them in the box like richj shows in his pic.
Most of what Load for I have cases of several brands. If I wanted to carry two loads in the field I would load in different head stamps or use bullets that don't look alike.
Leo

quote:

Originally posted by Karoo:
eg: I have a 165 gr and a 180 grain load that shoot to the same point of impact and take them to the field with me.

Sorry, but I have to ask why.

Surely, a 180 and a 165 in the same caliber, shooting to the same POI (so one is clearly not a subsonic or something like that), and with bullets of a design similar enough that they cannot be easily distinguished at a glance, cannot have performance so radically different that one could need them both on the same day?

I can understand if you have solids and softs, but the bullets would be easy to distinguish.
I myself have three loads for my .308, but the bullets are easy to distinguish, because one is a 155gr match, one is a 150gr Rhino Solid Shank and the third is a subsonic load which uses a 170gr flat-nose bullet intended for .30-30s.

I would not be happy with a marking that can come off to distinguish between loads in the field.

However, many years ago I used to reload ammo for a couple of different users. Three of those users shot .30-06, and those cases I added a single-letter head-stamp to be able to identify which cases were who's.