OK Rigby guys, I just got a set of RCBS Rigby dies and no crimp die. The guy behind the counter looked up the RCBS catalogue and said they didn't list a crimp die for that cal. ?! So if you crimp, where did you get your crimp die from?

Take an empty, un-primered case and seat a bullet. Send it and $25. to Lee and request a factory crimp die.

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RC

When I had my Rigby all that was available at less than a King's ransom were the Hornady die set. Whenever I tried to even apply a light crimp it would crumple the case necks. Tragic at the $3.00 per case I was paying! So sent Lee a case and got a great crimp die in about 10 days. Did the same for my .338-06 too and both worked great.
FN

My RCBS bullet seating die is design such that if you back off the seating plug you can adjust the die so that it will crimp the case mouth.

This is how it is done (not to insult you intelligence). After you have seated all your bullets back off the seating plug (I usually back it out all the way). Then loosen the 7/8 lock nut on you die. Then place a loaded cartridge in the shell holder and advance the ram. Then turn the die down by hand until it is tight then retighten the lock nut on the die. Prior to retightening the lock nut lower the ram and check the crimp. Unless RCBS has changed their dies this should get you a crimp.

Todd E

Todd - I did not respond to this message because I have a .416Dakota RCBS die set. Mine work the same way as you described. I seat the bullet first. Then I remove the seater and employ the crimp. I use Woodleigh bullets and crimp on the cannelure - perfect every time.

The Lee solution is insensitive to case length, the others are very sensitive. So unless you just trimmed the whole batch (something I do only when they start to get long again), the roll crimps can tend to bulge the longer cases.

The Lee factory crimp is only $10 for standard calibers. Probably the best $10 I ever spent in .416Rem.

Don

Go back to the store and tell the guy behind the counter tht RCBS didn't include their instructions with the dies, or the distributor opened the box and took them out.

By the way, the seater die is the crimp die. Next time you have a question about firearms or reloading, remember that the guy behind the counter is, so far, someone who sells and orders and looks things up in catalogues, not a source of information on reloading.

If you're reloading for .416 Rigby, I recommend a big-bore-oriented guide like the A-Square manual available from Sinclair's. By the way, although you can crimp with the RCBS crimp/seat die, I too recommend the Lee factory crimp die, which is custom ($25 and send them a dummy) in .416 Rigby.

I guess I should have specified. I am looking for a seperate crimp die so I don't have to monkey with the seat die for seating and crimping. I want to set them up and do a run without diddling with the seater (I have a 4 stage Dillon press). I know you can use the RCBS die for both seat and crimp. I've done it, I just don't prefer it. Is Lee the only one making seperate crimp dies? What about Redding? I have one of their crimp dies for my 45-70.

RCBS DOES make a separate crimp die. You buy another seater/crimper die and take out the seater. I have done this in pistol calibers.

Nevertheless, I would recommend the Lee for .416 Rigby. Not from experience in .416, though; I just ordered mine last week.

[This message has been edited by Recono (edited 07-24-2001).]

I eliminated the need to crimp for a .450 Alaskan in the M71 Win. tubular magazine by reducing the diameter of the neck expanding plug, increasing the bullet pull to the point where the bullets (400 grain Barnes @ 2400 FPS) stopped moving under recoil. Since it was a compressed load, there was no problem of bullets setting back into the case. Worked great!!

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Larry