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track lighting cost YIKES??
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For you track lighting experts, is a normal cost for an individual light snap in socket around 120.00 each? Plus 9.00 per light? Seems really high to me?
 
Posts: 1324 | Registered: 17 February 2004Reply With Quote
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I'm in the process of finishing a remodeled house...added on a 25x22 room with 12ft walls.
Finding "nice" track lighting has been a chore. Had bought some from Lowes then read the reviews.....returned them first chance I had. I'm trying to find some nice LEDs..electric saving..they are hard to find!


Skip Nantz
 
Posts: 538 | Location: SouthEast, KY | Registered: 09 May 2010Reply With Quote
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Picture of Tim Herald
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I ended up putting 24 cans in my ceiling. 12 - 5" standard cans and 12 -3" directional eyeballs around the walls to point where I want or alleviate shadows.

Bad cell phone photo, but you can see the lights...


Good Hunting,

Tim Herald
Worldwide Trophy Adventures
tim@trophyadventures.com
 
Posts: 2980 | Location: Lexington, KY | Registered: 13 January 2005Reply With Quote
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My room will be 36x20x10 and the six 4'tracks with 3 lights on each is to cost 3600.00. 18 lights @ 200.00 each kinda opened my eyes to shopping around with the experts here on AR. Thanks for sharing your info. Nice looking room Tim
 
Posts: 1324 | Registered: 17 February 2004Reply With Quote
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Picture of Tim Herald
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My room is only 25x20, and we have way too much light in there. You could use it as a greenhouse when I turn them all on (3 separate switches for the ceiling). I know I didn't pay 1/2 as much as you are talking about for all 24 of mine. I think you could put 25-30 lights recessed in your ceiling at about $25-35/each and get out for half what just the tracks cost...It has been a year since we did ours, so I may be wrong on price, but I don't think it should be nearly that bad...


Good Hunting,

Tim Herald
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Posts: 2980 | Location: Lexington, KY | Registered: 13 January 2005Reply With Quote
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If you ask me, couple of nice chandeliers and it will look good. Shadows? Never thought about that.
I guess, everyone has their own idea about their trophy room
Nice lineup Tim.


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Posts: 13376 | Location: In mountains behind my house hunting or drinking beer in Blacksmith Brewery in Stevensville MT or holed up in Lochsa | Registered: 27 December 2012Reply With Quote
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Picture of Chris Lozano
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quote:
Originally posted by Skip Nantz:
I'm in the process of finishing a remodeled house...added on a 25x22 room with 12ft walls.
Finding "nice" track lighting has been a chore. Had bought some from Lowes then read the reviews.....returned them first chance I had. I'm trying to find some nice LEDs..electric saving..they are hard to find!


Before you spend the big bucks on LED,s be sure that is what you want. I install a lot of them in high end homes.They work great and are everything they say they are. You have to get the right cool-warm look. They are rated from 2000-6000. I usually use the ones rated as 3000-3500. Get the wrong ones and it will have a funny color to it. Some have a yellow cast and some a blue tone. Get the 6000 model and you will be able to perform surgery in the room.
 
Posts: 753 | Location: Michigan USA | Registered: 27 September 2008Reply With Quote
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Have used LED lights in all my recessed fixtures. 3000k in the kitchen, 3000k in a no window room downstairs, and 2700k in the trophy and workout room. This has worked perfect. The led track lights are just few and far between. The halogens are not dimmable, even though I will not dim them that much, I want that option. Will keep looking.

Chris, thanks for that advice! I've researched this quite a bit. Everyone looking at LED lights should pay attention to the "k" rating. Google it and you have all kinds do info. Well worth the time to research!


Skip Nantz
 
Posts: 538 | Location: SouthEast, KY | Registered: 09 May 2010Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Skip Nantz:
Have used LED lights in all my recessed fixtures. 3000k in the kitchen, 3000k in a no window room downstairs, and 2700k in the trophy and workout room. This has worked perfect. The led track lights are just few and far between. The halogens are not dimmable, even though I will not dim them that much, I want that option. Will keep looking.

Chris, thanks for that advice! I've researched this quite a bit. Everyone looking at LED lights should pay attention to the "k" rating. Google it and you have all kinds do info. Well worth the time to research!


Halogens are dimmable. Not sure which product you are looking at.


Mac

 
Posts: 1721 | Location: Salt Lake City, UT | Registered: 01 February 2007Reply With Quote
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Look at a company called e-conolight. I use their products quite a bit in my Electrical Contracting Business.

www.e-conolight.com

Track lights are funny....they can cost just as much as you want to pay. The LEDs especially. I doubt you would ever get enough use out of them to payback the original cost.

.
 
Posts: 41766 | Location: Crosby and Barksdale, Texas | Registered: 18 September 2006Reply With Quote
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McKay...dimmable Hals? Will look for these!

JTEX..thanks for the link.


Skip Nantz
 
Posts: 538 | Location: SouthEast, KY | Registered: 09 May 2010Reply With Quote
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Picture of Frostbit
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quote:
Originally posted by McKay:

Halogens are dimmable. Not sure which product you are looking at.


Do they produce a lot of heat?


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Posts: 7593 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 05 February 2008Reply With Quote
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Halogens can produce quite a bit of heat. But depending upon the use/number it is still pretty negligable..... Halogens are dimmable, some LEDS are dimmable.

Halogens give off a more natural color than LEDs. LEDs are getting better but IMO still have a ways to go.

I did my trophy room with halogen track lights purely for versatility. They are almost infinantly directional and the lamps are available from wide floods to very narrow spots also in a variety of wattages. I used two circuit track so that with a minimum of wiring I can switch ( pun intended ) instantly between to different lighting scenarios. One with minimal lighting for typical use and the other for "knock 'em out" dramatic lighting. Could have gone crazier with one of Lutrons master controls but I hate overcomplicated gadgets.

I really don't like can lights in this type of scenario because they are not as versatile, and they also penetrate the envelope and cut down on insulation coverage. I did use a few cans and eyeballs but only for specific areas that I was locked into due to height or other considerations.


.
 
Posts: 41766 | Location: Crosby and Barksdale, Texas | Registered: 18 September 2006Reply With Quote
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Picture of McKay
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quote:
Originally posted by Frostbit:
quote:
Originally posted by McKay:

Halogens are dimmable. Not sure which product you are looking at.


Do they produce a lot of heat?


they can depending on the wattage. Best way to get correct color from LED's is to set up your track with heads of different temp color. My opinion is that LED technology is now getting quite good. I would not have said that a year ago. It is still quite expensive for the good stuff. Not all LED is created equal and the market is flooded with cheap import stuff. I am a commercial electrical contractor. About half the lighting we are installing now is LED. With most fixtures the payoff in efficiency is not quite there yet until you account for maintenance. Many fixtures we are installing now have 120,000 to 150,000 hour led life. Great when you have hard to reach fixtures.


Mac

 
Posts: 1721 | Location: Salt Lake City, UT | Registered: 01 February 2007Reply With Quote
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for what my advice is worth,think to the future. when i built my room (about 800 sq.ft.12'hi) i put in trac lights along the full length of 5 beams. as the room filled up,the tracs didn't really do that great a job.. miy room is quite full (you can't walk from one end to the other) and all those animals eat up the light, so that there are more shadows than bright spots. doing it again i believe i'd build in some of the hi intensity 8' type
 
Posts: 13440 | Location: faribault mn | Registered: 16 November 2004Reply With Quote
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All the above is really helpful. the tracks I am looking at accept either halogen or LED lights. LED's run about 35 ea while halogen about 12 ea. Both will dim on these tracks. Halogen called MR 16 I think. The cost is in the individual snap in units that hold the individual bulbs with each running about 125. The halogen do come in more types than do the LEDs. Thanks to all for sharing your experiences.
 
Posts: 1324 | Registered: 17 February 2004Reply With Quote
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Picture of 505 gibbs
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In my experience, Lowes & Home depot have very limited selection and typically crap product for a premium price (overhead). As Tim suggested, can lighting is typically cheaper (on the product end), but has some additional cost on the installation end. They can also be a fairly serious fire hazard if not installed correctly. There is also the issue of "over lighting", this is usually because they are not directional and you are trying to get light in the places you want from a light that doesn't favor any direction but down. There is a conversion kit for can lighting that replaces the standard flood bulb with a GU10 halogen flood in a recessed assembly that is directional. What you end up with is a more intense spotlight effect pointing at what you want with the softer lighting elsewhere. These kits are reasonably cheap and can be installed easily with no tools (other than a ladder) after your can lights are installed. They also greatly reduce the fire hazard of can lighting. In closing, never buy your lighting from a big box store, that is for amateurs. Try lightingdirect.com or lampsplus.com, they have literally thousands of models of any kind of lighting you want. They also have "designers" you can call in and speak with that will point you in the right direction as far as the "look" you are going for. Make your decision, build a cart and then call in for an additional discount. Oh, and did I mention NO SALES TAX!! You will save 30%-40% over Nowe's and Slum Depot.
 
Posts: 5174 | Registered: 30 July 2007Reply With Quote
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Picture of McKay
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quote:
Originally posted by 505 gibbs:
In my experience, Lowes & Home depot have very limited selection and typically crap product for a premium price (overhead). As Tim suggested, can lighting is typically cheaper (on the product end), but has some additional cost on the installation end. They can also be a fairly serious fire hazard if not installed correctly. There is also the issue of "over lighting", this is usually because they are not directional and you are trying to get light in the places you want from a light that doesn't favor any direction but down. There is a conversion kit for can lighting that replaces the standard flood bulb with a GU10 halogen flood in a recessed assembly that is directional. What you end up with is a more intense spotlight effect pointing at what you want with the softer lighting elsewhere. These kits are reasonably cheap and can be installed easily with no tools (other than a ladder) after your can lights are installed. They also greatly reduce the fire hazard of can lighting. In closing, never buy your lighting from a big box store, that is for amateurs. Try lightingdirect.com or lampsplus.com, they have literally thousands of models of any kind of lighting you want. They also have "designers" you can call in and speak with that will point you in the right direction as far as the "look" you are going for. Make your decision, build a cart and then call in for an additional discount. Oh, and did I mention NO SALES TAX!! You will save 30%-40% over Nowe's and Slum Depot.


Agreed. 99% of the lighting at the big box stores are junk. Especially LED.


Mac

 
Posts: 1721 | Location: Salt Lake City, UT | Registered: 01 February 2007Reply With Quote
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Picture of mmassey338
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I got my track lighting from City Electric Supply. Went in and looked through catalogs until I found the fixtures I liked, which take regular bulb bases, but I put led's in them.
The led's I bought are par 20, 8 watt, 380 lumen, 3000k.
Don't remember the cost of the fixtures, but I know it was less than $50 per.
 
Posts: 400 | Location: Here | Registered: 13 December 2011Reply With Quote
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Back to your original question. Since being pushed into an early retirement, I've been renovating houses. I don't pick the fixtures or where people want them. I've installed both can light systems and some track lights. In an existing house, you've got to get the power to the area and wires thru the walls and ceilings to where you want he lights. Than can be a real pain, especially in really old houses. Stone walls and 12x12 beams are pretty formidable. Usually the owner wants a couple circuits, that makes more wires and holes. Cleanup and wall restoration is sometimes time consuming. The units can be expensive as can the switches, particularly the new electronic stuff. This kind of job is a lot easier with two people. While it reduces the time, it nearly doubles the hourly rate. All that to say that your price isn't out of line for the areas that I work, in the kinds of old historic houses I've been working on, it would be higher.
Bfly


Work hard and be nice, you never have enough time or friends.
 
Posts: 1195 | Location: Lake Nice, VA | Registered: 15 March 2005Reply With Quote
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I have just finished my room.. As suggested by AR members I put up lots of track lighting (10 sets)..my mistake was not putting the switch controls in a central location.. If you can do so..I have to go all over the room to turn off my lights when I leave.. killpc
 
Posts: 282 | Location: TALLAHASSEE,FL | Registered: 08 September 2013Reply With Quote
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Picture of Tim Herald
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JCOOK,

Definitely one "panel" of controls where you enter and exit the room is very convenient.


Good Hunting,

Tim Herald
Worldwide Trophy Adventures
tim@trophyadventures.com
 
Posts: 2980 | Location: Lexington, KY | Registered: 13 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Picture of jdollar
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i have both can and track lights in my trophy room. i turn on whichever set will do what i want it to do.they are all on rheostats at the 2 entrances to the room and can be anything from subtle and indirect to damn near blinding if i crank all of them up to max.


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Posts: 13139 | Location: Georgia | Registered: 28 October 2006Reply With Quote
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Jerry, I should have asked you when you were here... Did you install the central control during or after the track lighting was installed.. In short, those of us with the lights and switches already installed, can the central control be install with ease?
 
Posts: 282 | Location: TALLAHASSEE,FL | Registered: 08 September 2013Reply With Quote
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since the trophy room lighting was part of the electrical plan when we built the house, all the wiring/switches for the lights was run during the framing stage. the room has 2 entries/exits with a control panel at each location.


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Posts: 13139 | Location: Georgia | Registered: 28 October 2006Reply With Quote
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