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Educate me about vault / safe rooms doors and gun rooms.
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I am about to start a remodel on my home in Arizona. I have some pretty nice guns and they are worth some money. I am asking myself how much I want to spend to keep them secure. Maybe I'm better off to simply install a couple large safes that are bolted through to the floor and spend my money on a safari or other enjoyments.

And i have to ask... if I am locked in my gun room, what fool is going to be trying to break in?

Hypothetical, I know, but I usually need a reason to do something and measure carefully.
 
Posts: 872 | Location: S. E. Arizona | Registered: 01 February 2019Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Alec Torres:
I am about to start a remodel on my home in Arizona. I have some pretty nice guns and they are worth some money. I am asking myself how much I want to spend to keep them secure. Maybe I'm better off to simply install a couple large safes that are bolted through to the floor and spend my money on a safari or other enjoyments.

And i have to ask... if I am locked in my gun room, what fool is going to be trying to break in?


I would think the cost of building such a room would be pretty low if done along with new construction or a major remodel rather than retrofitting just part of an existing structure. In for a penny, in for a pound, right? Worth it, imho.
 
Posts: 2472 | Registered: 06 July 2008Reply With Quote
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You can but a couple of good quality nice sized safes for $5k.

Securing an entire room is going to be a lot more than that even with a remodel underway.

The doors are the easy part. Walls, ceiling, floor are the hard part. IF the alarm system is defeated a lot can be accomplished with a 12 sledge and an hour.


Mike



What I have learned on AR, since 2001:
1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken.
2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps.
3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges.
4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down.
5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine.
6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle.
7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions.
8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA.
9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not.
10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact.
11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores.
12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence.
13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances.
 
Posts: 10055 | Location: Loving retirement in Boise, ID | Registered: 16 December 2003Reply With Quote
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Having one built now. It features 6" thick reinforced concrete walls, and an 8" thick reinforced concrete ceiling. It will have an inward swinging Fort Knox Vault door. The cabinetry is set to be done by Julian and Sons. The following are a few photos of the construction process. Cheers. Chip.











 
Posts: 268 | Location: TUCSON, AZ | Registered: 18 November 2007Reply With Quote
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Alec:

An AZ guide I recently used told me he had a safe stolen from his house that was bolted to the floor. Apparently they busted through his front door in broad daylight and busted the bolts loose. It was a retrofit bolt job, so I am not sure how how secure those bolts were. My bolts were positioned before the concrete pour.

I asked if he had an alarm system and he said no. Big mistake. The cops may not show up in five minutes, but they will show up in 30 min or so at the worst and that is not enough time to bust a safe out. I am having a vault made for our Colorado house, but I feel okay with safes bolted in the floor in this one. My bolts are 1/2 inch and there are four in each safe.

A few more notes. Bill Quimby had his guns stolen by guys posing as landscapers. One or two guys start some leaf blowers, make a hell of a racket, then two others break into the house.

I live in a small gated community; a gate helps a lot. So does living on a cul de sac with only two other house - whenever one of us leaves, we tell the neighbors to keep an eye out. And we ALWAYS set the alarm EVERY time we leave the house.


Don't Ever Book a Hunt with Jeff Blair
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Posts: 7570 | Location: Arizona and off grid in CO | Registered: 28 July 2004Reply With Quote
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I did both I harden a room and put a couple of safes in.

I finished the door way and made it small enough so you have to tear the wall out to get the safes out.

Plus they are anchored to the floor.

I like the idea of several safes instead of one big one.

If they only open one they only get the stuff in that one.

The more time that you cause them to use the better off you are.
 
Posts: 19362 | Location: wis | Registered: 21 April 2001Reply With Quote
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I have a portfolio approach to gun safes.

I have a row of liberty safes bolted in the fourth car bay in my garage. Given that they are 1-2 inches apart it would be impossible to move them without opening them. If someone wants to cut them - go ahead cut thru 3 safes.

I have a rolling kitchen stand - one of the Pantry stands and I have it filled with paper products Costco has on sale. It perfectly covers the safes.

I will get a high end browning safe for inside the house and a couple of the smaller safes that can be used as a bed stand for a few rooms in the house.

I have also replaced locks on all the bedrooms, home office and nearly every room with keyed locks. I can basically lock up every room in my house. It probably violates some firecode.

Also live in a gated community with 75 houses and 65 of them have to drive by my house. Plenty of eyes to see any strange activity.

Mike
 
Posts: 13145 | Location: Cocoa Beach, Florida | Registered: 22 July 2010Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by AnotherAZWriter:
Alec:

An AZ guide I recently used told me he had a safe stolen from his house that was bolted to the floor. Apparently they busted through his front door in broad daylight and busted the bolts loose.



Near Addison airport a few years back, in daylight, a wrecker backed into the front yard and stuck its boom through a large bay window.

The driver stayed in the truck, the swamper bailed through the gaping whole taking the winch cable in through the house down a hallway and attached it to the safe.

The wrecker spun up the wench ripping the safe from the concrete floor and nearly destroying the house as the safe tore down walls, etc. on its way to the wrecker.

Once to the boom, the driver lifted the safe into the air and drove off.

Do not think they were ever caught.

(probably a worker or acquaintance that knew of the safe, IMO)


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Posts: 4593 | Location: TX | Registered: 03 March 2009Reply With Quote
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If you are going to bolt down your safe (and you should), use Hilti concrete anchors.
 
Posts: 887 | Location: Wichita Falls Texas or Colombia | Registered: 25 February 2011Reply With Quote
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I built a fur safe for aveni furs once .We used four layers of 5/8 fireproof sheetrock with chicken wire between each layer .We also built the marine barracks at Paris island marine base in SC there we used two layers of 5/8 fireproof sheetrock with metal lathe with an inch of 10000 pound plaster .Thosd walls in those two places were the strongest sheetrock walls plus fire proof I ever built.The fur place never got broken into .I would put the metal lathe on the ceiling and two layers of durarock board at least 6.Its going to be heavy but super strong laminate it together with glue.I made boxes around bank safes too out of 16 ga 6 inch studs . It all depends on how much you want to spend .The last bank vault I did was awesome I said that's a perfict size for all my guns !
 
Posts: 2534 | Registered: 21 December 2003Reply With Quote
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I used Smith Security Safes - they claim to be the largest vault door manufacturer in the US. Great products, great service, great value.

https://www.smithsecuritysafes.com/


"Evil is powerless if the good are unafraid" -- Ronald Reagan

"Ignorance of The People gives strength to totalitarians."

Want to make just about anything work better? Keep the government as far away from it as possible, then step back and behold the wonderment and goodness.
 
Posts: 3041 | Location: Austin, Texas | Registered: 05 April 2006Reply With Quote
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