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Rooster Laboratories dip (tumbe) Lube Liquid
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<45-70 Govt>
posted
Has anyone used the Rooster Laboratories liquid dip lube, I understand it's dip rather than tumble. Not sure. I believe it's a clear also, and that some are adding Moly for high velocity. Any help would be appreciate.
 
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45/70 Govt it sez your a new member-- so welcome aboard. We've a nice group here methinks.

I've never used that product but is sounds like it has merit. Find out how hard it dries as that's really a primary determining factor for higher speeds translating into higher than norm chamber psi's. Lube closes the deal on seal as it has to move some to plug the cracks-- or too soft and gas cutting is more apt to happen. Yet good bullet fit is the key.

Rather than add moly powder I'd suggest some agent which has moly already dissolved, which should make it's level thorough the mix more uniform. But powdered would work.
 
Posts: 1529 | Location: Central Wisconsin | Registered: 01 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Ten or fifteen years ago, there was a wonderful lube called BulletMaster. It was dip or tumble applied and looked like a coat of black paint from the moly in it. It sent cast bullets zipping down the bore like they were jacketed. I was getting 2700 fps and 1.5 inch groups with Lee 150 grain GCs from a rifle that would just barely break an inch with the best jacketed load.

I expect EPA shut them down. It had some really nasty stuff in it, but it sure worked.

Anyway, I don't see how it could have moved at all during firing. It dried hard.
 
Posts: 1570 | Location: Base of the Blue Ridge | Registered: 04 November 2002Reply With Quote
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"Anyway, I don't see how it could have moved at all during firing. It dried hard"

I'm guilty of looking at a load from my own perspective per bullet hardness-- I use very hard bullets that don't oburate and do need the lube to get that slug into the rifling before any gas cutting starts. So I think...

In your scenario I'd guess the bullet is smacked to the limit per the psi's sealing the gases. And your bore Q and throat dimensions musta matched that bullet quite well.

Interesting stuff-- do you still have the can or have any idea of the ingredients?? We touched on this once before methinks.. I mentioned the farm plow blade coating at the hardware store??
 
Posts: 1529 | Location: Central Wisconsin | Registered: 01 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Funny, I was in your exact place a few months ago. I was interested in the Rooster lube but couldn't find anyone who had used it. I finally got myself some to try so now I can be "the guy who has tried it."

I was interested in it for two reasons initially. I had a bunch of commercial cast .44 bullets that were leading the throats on my revolvers so bad I stopped using them. I was thinking this extra lube might make them shootable just to get rid of them. I really didn't want to have to re-melt them. I had also just started casting and was interested in the Lee tumble lube bullets for making lighter shooting loads in 38's, 9mm and 45's. I had started trying the Lee liquid alox but didn't like how it never really dried and was still messy.

The lube itself is listed as an "aqueous emulsion" on the bottle but it doesn't list the ingredients. It is water based and the company recommends diluting it with distilled water for use on bullets. It was my understanding that it is like a water soluble wax type stuff. If you get it on your hands and start rubbing it off it has a waxy feel. It does dry to a pretty hard coating which is what I was hoping for and it is clear for the most part. It is slightly yellow in places where it dried thicker.

Now on to use. It is fairly easy to use, just dip and dry. I used a screen to put the bullets on after dipping. When the bullets were dried, they had chunks of dried lube where they were resting on the screen. This was a minor irritation but was slightly messy when it came to loading. I didn’t dilute my lube very much and I think that may solve some of that problem. I was thinking of also trying to stand them up on a screen and pour the lube over them so they have a smooth even coat. I still have some experimenting to do with it.

I ended up coating those commercial bullets and shooting them. I was pleased with the results as the leading was stopped. I also tried them on some of the tumble lube bullets and they shot the same as the Alox coated ones. I think that it is important to ensure that the bullets properly fit the gun in order to use this stuff. I am going to try some of my regular style cast bullets that don’t need sizing and see how they work with the lube.

By the way, I mixed up a small batch of the lube with some moly and it just became part of the emulsion. I didn’t really see any difference but I only tested a small sample. Since I got a gallon, I am thinking of mixing up a separate batch with a decent amount of moly powder in it and do some serious testing.

Don’t know what other ?’s I can answer for you? I don’t get to this forum that often so if you want to take it off line email me at wegner@theriver.com with anything else.
 
Posts: 84 | Location: Southeast AZ | Registered: 25 November 2000Reply With Quote
<reloaderman>
posted
Have any of you guys tried Midway's "Drop-Out" as a bullet lube? I've shot 30 cal Lee 180 gr @ 2500 fps without any leading, and it dries dry! [Big Grin]
 
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<45-70 Govt>
posted
Thanks Aladin for the welcome and all the responses. Sent email to Intel6 asking where he purchased and how much it cost. The lube grip on the bullet is interesting. If I can find some, will post paper test. Method is new to me, I've never used a tumble lube type bullet,
 
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<45-70 Govt>
posted
Reloader Man,
I've Moly coated cast bullets several different ways. Most accurate for 30-30 was to apply gas check, Moly Coat in tumbler with Moly and walnut shell,(removed dust first) then size, then moly again and then lube with in .001 bigger size die. They were a pain, but shot great. I've spray coated with Moly also, but never tried any fps over 2000 approx. Either way took about 20 rounds to "Moly in". I was searcing for accuracy rather than velocity without leading. I suppose the Midway product would do much the same.
 
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I have the can. Aladin, with a little left in it.

Active stuff is:

Moly -- 75.3%
Antimony Oxide 15.1
Dibasic Lead Phosphite -- 6.8
Additives 2.8

Carrier is epoxy resins and a bunch of solvents, about half clorinated. Combined the carrier is about 85% of the total.

See why I am guessing EPA shut them down? But it sure works good.
 
Posts: 1570 | Location: Base of the Blue Ridge | Registered: 04 November 2002Reply With Quote
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