Dale,
Grumble's got it, you really really want the C113-309-RF;
outa' my 32-20 Colt Army Special , sans check and a single tumble lube in Lee Alox, they do just
fine. Still workin' on an accuracy load there,7.5gr of 2400 gives about 2-3" for a full cylinder at 25yds, good for me with a 80yr old handgun. In my Marlin 336(22"), over a midrange load of Rx7 with check and a Felix inspired lube, I get 2300fps and MOA. Well worth grabbing a 2 cavity from Midway for under $20 and giving it a go.
Cheers,
R*2

Hi Guys!

Yep, I think I have one of those 6 cavity 113 molds. Haven't had time to play with it or the other 2 molds still new in the box. ( the .357 180 grain just offered and a nei 4 cavity- hmmm, I think .....200 grain .30 cal very similiar to 311332 with a .301 nose.) This fall I promise myself to play for some weekends. And we usually cast in the wintertime. Make a day of it and make 5 - 8000 bullets.

I have the 311410 bullet now. It does all I can expect it to do. A few grains of a fast powder ( I don't give out data- liability, you know) and it is more accurate than I can hold offhand....which is 99% of my shooting. I was just wanting a tumble lube version of it. hmmm....maybe I could tumble lube my 130's....


So many projects- so little time or maybe Dale

trk, OUTSTANDING!!

Um, would you mind starting a new thread for this, please? I get confused too
easily, and can't remember which boolit we're talking about. Hell, at my age, I
feel lucky to remember where my clean socks are, nevermind great-looking mold
designs!

Tim!
Oh you are slick with dem fancy lines! Tank you, tank you!
Looks great,,,,, but for higher velocities,,,Gas check?
Now if we could get Lee to make a 6-banger,,, I'd certainly take one! Hell, I'd settle for 2 cavities! And hang the expense of getting a custom .258 sizer to go along with it,
Whatcha' think gennulmen?????
Cheers,
R*2

Grumble, Russe11 - It's just a drawing. IF SOMEONE wants to make it a project I'll support it, but THEY need to start the new thread and assume LEADERSHIP. It's going to take a little research to determine the diameters. Weight is a given - in .25-20 if you get above 90 gr. it's not going to stabilize.

Okay, a couple of points that need to be looked into.
1. what nose will feed in a leveraction 30-30 M-94 or Marlin 336?

2. Do we want the base completely contained in the neck of a 30-30?

Tomorrow I"ll try to turn a brass bullet to the dimensions listed and try it in my M94. I'll do a chamber case to see what the dimensions are. If someone could do a chamber cast of a Marlin that would help.

What is a good nose to body length ratio that will work well?

Lets look at these issues and go from there.

Thoughts?

Lar45-
My answers to your post:
1. Lyman 311041, 311291, 311241, 311008; RCBS 30-150-FN, 30-180-FN, 30-150-CM; LEE 150&170 FN
all feed well.
2. A 30-30 has about the longest neck that will be used. What would be the point in making it
longer than what will fit into this neck? The base of the bullet would be gas cut slightly
more if it would protrude past the base of case neck.
"Tomorrow I"ll try to turn a brass bullet to the dimensions listed and try it in my M94. I'll do
a chamber case to see what the dimensions are. If someone could do a chamber cast of a Marlin
that would help".
Marlins like a fatter bullet and if you go beyond a .302" nose it might not fit in other
leverguns.
"What is a good nose to body length ratio that will work well?"
A bullet that has a base to crimp groove that fits into the 30-30 neck length and a crimp
groove to meplat distance that is .007 to .100" shorter than that of a Lyman 311041 which
is maximum for the 30-30. This is about what an old Lyman 311241 bullet has and they shoot
great out of the 30-30. The major problem with most all current molds is that they are gas
checked and have a nose diameter (.297" to .300") that is too small.

lar45: If you turn up a brass "master" bullet, it is quite easy to make a Plaster-of-Paris mould from it from which you could run a dozen or so castings (the material is not very durable for more than that) you could experiment with. It's easy and cheap to do; PM me for details (as a kid, I used to "bootleg" copies of tin soldiers, etc., this way). floodgate

The original thought was to have the body inside a 30-30 neck, but with the many revisions that part was lost sight of. Do you have a number for nose length? .3" .4" ?
So I'm guessing, make the body to fit inside a 30-30 neck, then add the correct nose length and see what the weight turns out to be?
what about the maximum length of the full diameter .310" of the front drive band? .1" .05" .03" ?

Lar45-
I will measure my mold and give you the results tomorrow.

Lar45-
I spent some of yesterday evening machineing WW bullets. The length total should be about 0.855" to get a 160 gr. bullet. Base of bullet to crimp groove should be 0.426" which is 30-30 neck length. Conversion from cubic inch to grains weight is about 2,908 gr. per cu. in. This was calculated from RCBS manual showing weight and diameter changes for a 165 gr. and 30 cal. bullet. I am sending both you and trk an Autocad14 dwg. of the bullet as I have outlined for your perusals.

All, I turned a brass boolit and it fed through my M-94 flawlessly. We are working out the final as cut dimensions to get the cast dimensions right. When that's settled, we'll post the final pic and start accepting orders.

I think we're very close.



The following is a MINIMUM chamber (SAAMI specs. for 30-30):



[url="http://www.hunt101.com/?p=176192&c=500&z=1"]



[/url]



The two sets of lines in the bore are .300 and .308 (minimum SAAMI dimensions, max being .302 and .310")



The one green vertical line is where the neck of the cartridge (OD) should fall. The two green vertical lines are the minimum and maximum cartridge lengths.



The bullet is slightly engaged into the throat - to a depth of .0010 inches (all around) at the point of tangency of the ogive and the .302 diameter of the nose (minimal).

I'm ready to take a look at the final design for this "skinny" 30!!