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pouring my own bullets. Where to start?
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I have hundreds of pounds of lead I have accumulated and have been thinking about pouring my own projectiles for my 300acc and 308. Both shoot 150 grain now so I would think sticking near that would be ideal.

Anyhow any idea on where to start getting educated on the process?


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Posts: 265 | Location: Oklahoma City, OK | Registered: 31 December 2005Reply With Quote
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Get a Lyman Reloading Manual. MOST of their info is good. It has load information for both jacketed and cast. Some makes good writing material I guess but otherwise not much use. Somebody will say get Veral Smith's "book". Book is a HUGE stretch. It's a pamphlet and philled with badly misspelled werds. No load data and is way overpriced for what you get.
 
Posts: 3797 | Location: san angelo tx | Registered: 18 November 2009Reply With Quote
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I have given you my honest opinion of Veral Smith's book "Jacketed Performance with Cast Bullets". That doesn't happen either. True you can take a big heavy cast bullet with a rainbow trajectory and kill animals. Buffalo were almost made extinct with cast bullets. That by no means is jacketed performance. Now to be fair to Veral I'll tell you the latest information I have on how to get his book. Last I knew it was $25 to Judy Smith HCR 62 Box 145 Moyie Springs,Idaho 83845.
 
Posts: 3797 | Location: san angelo tx | Registered: 18 November 2009Reply With Quote
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Get the latest Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook and read from cover to cover. This has all the information you will ever need if you want to get into casting your own bullets. Once you understand the basics and start producing and shooting cast bullets, then AR and other forums have boundless information to enhance your cast bullet knowledge.

While you can stick to the same weight as you use for jacketed bullets, often a lighter weight cast bullet works well in most cartridges, just depends on what you want to shoot with them. If targets or smaller animals then the lighter cast bullets are cheaper and easier on the shoulder than full house jacketed.
 
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Posts: 4962 | Location: soda springs,id | Registered: 02 April 2008Reply With Quote
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PM me if you want to talk about case bullets; I started in 1968 and have cast a lot of them; rifle and pistol. It is nothing like shooting or loading with jacketed; nothing similar except maybe the primer. Yes, get the books they mentioned. Wolf publishing too.
What kind of lead to you have? That makes a lot of difference too as to how you start. If you have pure lead, that won't work; have to add tin. Just one thing.
 
Posts: 17046 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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A friend of mine casts and shoots 220 gr spire point boolits in his 300 Blackout.
Subsonic and quiet. Penetrates well.


Phil Shoemaker : "I went to a .30-06 on a fine old Mauser action. That worked successfully for a few years until a wounded, vindictive brown bear taught me that precise bullet placement is not always possible in thick alders, at spitting distances and when time is measured in split seconds. Lucky to come out of that lesson alive, I decided to look for a more suitable rifle."
 
Posts: 1934 | Location: Eastern Central Alaska | Registered: 15 July 2014Reply With Quote
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Check out the castboolits website. A lot of real experts there and some are very helpful.

The problem you will run into is information overload! Wink

You need to set your goals and expectations very clearly at the start.

How much are you going to shoot with cast bullets? Just a few or one heck of a lot?

Are you shooting for fun, on game or competition?

If it is for reasonably accurate loads with less fuss and mess, I would limit my scope to basics.

This is what I did recently - being new to casting.

I got the Lyman book as suggested. I got 1 Lee mould. I borrowed a Lee bottom pour pot and used clip on wheel weights and some 50/50 solder and I got very good bullets.

I then powder coated them. Far better than lubing. Cost much less, no mess and very easy. Plus the bullets shoot well. No need to worry about gas checks, wads etc.

If I was shooting a lot of 308 bullets I would get a custom mould to produce 0.308 bullets and a 309 sizing die. I would then powder coat the cast bullets and size them to 0.309 with probably 1 to 2 thou of PC on the lead bullet.

I am sure others may disagree with my suggestion. JMHO.


"When the wind stops....start rowing. When the wind starts, get the sail up quick."
 
Posts: 11006 | Location: New Zealand | Registered: 02 July 2008Reply With Quote
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gunz---you mentioned already shooting .30 cal 150 grain bullets and I suspect you mean jacketed. Chances are high you shoot those jacketed bullets at a much higher velocity than you will the cast bullets. Point of impact will be much different, so keeping same weight wouldn't have much purpose. I don't even recall the first jacketed reload I shot as it felt about like factory stuff I had shot. The first cast bullets I shot were in my 30-06 one load I used 4064 powder and was around 2400 fps and I thought it felt about like a 30-30. My next load was Unique powder around 1600 fps and I thought I had a misfire--very little recoil and blast.
 
Posts: 3797 | Location: san angelo tx | Registered: 18 November 2009Reply With Quote
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+1 for Castboolits website.

More info below:

Cheers, Brian



The Los Angeles Handgun, Rifle, Air Pistol, Hunter/Field Pistol Silhouette Club

Return to the index to LASC The Cast Bullet and Shooting Sports articles of Glen E. Fryxell
A wide range of bullet casting information



pdf version


Recipes

Blending Cast Bullet Antimony Alloys
Table 1

Key to abbreviations Alloying with Roto Metals Super Hard
Table 2

Conversion Factors

By: Rick Kelter
Table 3



Roto Metals, Inc. of San Leandro, CA has recently done a tremendous favor and service for bullet casters with the introduction of Roto Metals Super Hard Alloy. It is now a simple matter to blend (alloy) a limitless variety of lead/antimony alloys to suit your needs, it opens up a whole new world of possibilities for bullet alloys and bullet casters.
Super Hard is a 70% lead (Pb), 30% antimony (Sb) alloy that is used to increase the antimony percentage (harden the alloy) of your current lead supply such as clip-on and stick-on (tape type) wheel weight, plumbers lead, sheet lead and many other lead alloys. It is made with virgin metals, not from scrap metals so you are adding perfectly "clean", new alloy to your casting pot. With the addition of pure bar tin from Roto Metals the sky is the limit and you take control of your casting alloys, even with many scrap lead alloys.

Antimony (Sb). It is the current metal used to strengthen/harden lead alloys for bullet casters and for numerous applications in the metals industry. It is an extremely brittle metal but has unique characteristics in a lead alloy in addition to its basic hardening, such as the ability to heat treat a lead alloy bringing the final hardness up far more than what the percentage of antimony would suggest. Alloys such as monotype (19% Sb) and stereotype (23% Sb) are so brittle because of their extremely high Sb percentages, bullets cast of them can actually break in two by simply chambering a round or dropping it on a cement floor. Antimony is a valuable part of the bullet casters alloy but too much of a good thing is clearly not a good thing. Super Hard is for blending (alloying) with softer lead or lead alloys, never try to cast bullets with Super Hard alone, you will not be a happy camper.

Antimony is a silver white metal, very hard and very brittle. It has no characteristic crystallographic surfaces when sheared. Melting temperature is 1167° F and even when melted at or above that temperature it is not easy to get a homogeneous alloy with lead. In addition, Sb in it's pure or powdered form is highly toxic and proper breathing apparatus and proper and thorough clean up afterwards is necessary. So what to do? Antimony is an important part of many bullet casting alloys but it's both difficult and could even be dangerous to try to alloy yourself. Here is one of the real services provided by Roto Metals, the professionals have done the difficult and dangerous part of alloying Pb/Sb for you. Super Hard melts at about 650o F, is homogeneous with your base alloy and thus blends in with your melt quickly and easily with your final flux before casting.

Weight and Size differences. As the percentages of the alloys in a melt change other changes occur in addition to the weight of the bullet. In general the higher the percentage of Sb the larger the as cast diameter of the bullet and the larger the diameter of the bullet the more increase there is. In other words a 45 caliber bullet will show more of an increase than a .308" caliber bullet (table 3). In addition, the alloy percentages have a direct effect on the final sized diameter (table 1). I imagine the sizer die makers get daily phone calls from customers complaining (as an example) that their .309" die sizes to .3084" and not .309". If you change the alloy the weight, as cast diameter, shrinkage, sized diameter and BHN all change. Higher Sb percentages also result in less shrinkage as the bullet cools and it's possible for this simple fact to result in bullets that are a bit tougher to get to fall from the mold (table 2). From the tables it can also be seen that in reverse the softer the alloy (less Sb) and the larger the diameter of the bullet that more shrinkage will occur.

Sb and Brittleness. As you have already read, raising the Sb percentage makes bullets brittle so the key is to not get carried away, your intended target should guide you to the maximum percent of Sb in an alloy. Look over the recipes I listed below and you'll notice that in only Hardball (6% Sb) and Lyman #2 (5% Sb) and 1 other (Alloy #2-1) did I go over 5% Sb and #2-1 is still under 5.5%. The vast majority of smokeless powder handgun and rifle loads should be well served with these Sb percentages. Hollow points intended for hunting/expansion should be about 2% Sb and 2% Sn. Thanks to Super Hard this is now fairly easy to dial in.

The tin (Sn) in your melt. Sb oxidizes rapidly when in contact with air and the Sn in your melt helps inhibit this oxidation in melts up to about 750 degrees. With higher temps than this tin itself oxidizes much more rapidly and looses much of it's ability to inhibit Sb and Pb oxidation. It's not only the surface of the top of the melt in your pot that's in contact with air but also the stream of alloy from a bottom pour pot or even from a ladle that Sb will also oxidize, the hotter the alloy the faster the oxidation. This stream of alloy into your mold is where tin will play it's most effective roll in reducing the oxidation of Sb. By reducing the oxidation of both Sb/Pb tin reduces the surface tension of the melted alloy which enables your alloy to fill in the smallest corners and angles inside the mold resulting in well filled out bullets. The addition of 1 or 2% Sn is very beneficial when adding Sb to your alloy.


The Base Metals. All clip-on wheel weight (CWW) recipes and percentages used in these recipes are based on the assumption that CWW has 2% Sb and 0.5% Sn plus a trace of arsenic (As). Additional tin in the below recipes added as pure bar tin. My batch of CWW (several batches blended together for a single uniform batch) with 2% Sn added tests 11-12 BHN.

All stick-on (tape weights) (SWW) recipes and percentages used in these recipes are based on the assumption that SWW has 0% Sb and 0.5% Sn. SWW has no arsenic (As), it will HT with Sb added (Pb/Sb alloy) but not to the same extent as an Pb/Sb/As alloy. Additional tin in the below recipes added as pure bar tin. My batch of SWW (several batches blended together for a uniform single batch) tests 6 BHN.

The percentages of WW alloy are assumptions because wheel weight alloy is scrap metal, there is no exact formula for making the weights and percentages vary not only from company to company but even from batch to batch within the same manufacturer as the price of and availability of raw materials change. By using these "assumed" percentages your alloy will be reasonably close to the below recipes even with some variability with your wheel weight alloy.

All of the below recipes use either clip-on or stick-on wheel weight as the base metal. These recipes are but a minor sampling of what alloys Super Hard can be blended into, get out your wizards' cap and calculator and see what you can create to better suit your shooting needs. For the most part the below recipes were designed to allow me to experiment with final air cooled hardness, the aging time curve, as cast diameters, compare the differences and test to see what useful range 6 BHN SWW could be while keeping the Sb percentage reasonable.

Super Hard / WW Recipes

(Where no as cast weight or BHN given alloy not yet blended)

Top of Page



Clip-on WW - Roto Metals Super Hard


Notes

Alloy 1 15 lb CWW / 1 lb Super Hard
Notes

Alloy 2

Lead 107275 Gr.
92.75% Gr.

---
Lead

107275 Gr. 92.75%
Antimony 3904 Gr. 3.64% ---
Antimony

3904 Gr. 3.64%
Tin 4044 Gr. 3.77% (9.26 ounces) ---
Tin

1930 Gr. 1.8% (4.4 ounces)
Total weight

16.52 lb
BHN, Min 3 days 15

---

Total weight

16.225 lb
BHN, Min 3 days 12




Alloy 1-1

Alloy 2-1
15 lb CWW /


15 lb CWW / 2 lb Super Hard

Lead % ---
Lead

112175 Gr. 92.65%
Antimony % ---
Antimony

6004 Gr. 5.35%
Tin % ( ounces) ---
Tin

4206.5 Gr. 2% (5.1 ounces)
Total weight

lb
BHN, Min days

---
Total weight 17.48 lb

BHN, Min 3 days 13

Alloy #1 cast with Lyman #311672 @ 160.0 Gr. (average weight) and air cooled tested 14 BHN with the LBT BHN tester on the second day after casting - 15 BHN on day 3 - 15 BHN on day 4 - 15 BHN on day 5.
Alloy #2 cast with Lyman #311672 @ 161.0 Gr. (average weight) and air cooled tested 11 BHN with the LBT BHN tester on the second day after casting - 12 BHN on day 3. The only difference between #1 & #2 is the Sn percentage. Does additional Sn harden the alloy? It appears so and testing this was the purpose of making #2 identical to #1 except the Sn percentage.
Alloy #2-1 cast with Lyman #311672 @ 159.3.0 Gr. (average weight) and air cooled tested 13 BHN with the LBT BHN tester on the second day after casting, in 2 weeks it remained 13 BHN, in 30 days it reached 14 BHN. Alloy #2-1 was made by adding 1 pound SH and 313 Gr. Sn to alloy #2, the Sn added to bring the Sn % up to 2%.
Sn % added to Pb weight. Sb % added to Pb weight.
Trace of (As) from CWW in the above alloys. A trace of As is all that's needed for dramatic HT results with a Pb/Sb alloy.
1 lb CWW = 6825 Gr Pb, about 140 Gr Sb and 35 Gr Sn - 1 lb SH = 4900 Gr Pb, 2100 Gr Sb.


Stick-on WW - Roto Metals Super Hard


Notes

Alloy 3 15 lb SWW / 2 lb Super Hard
Notes

Alloy 4


Lead 114275 Gr.
92.6%

---
Lead

114275 Gr. 94.51%
Antimony 4182 Gr. 3.66% ---
Antimony

4182 Gr. 3.66%
Tin 4056 Gr. 3.55% (9.3 ounces) ---
Tin

2022 Gr. 1.77% (4.6 ounces)
Total weight

17.5 lb
BHN, Min days

---

Total weight

17.2 lb
BHN, Min days

Sn % added to Pb weight. Sb % added to Pb weight.
1 lb SWW = 6965 Gr Pb and 35 Gr Sn - 1 lb SH = 4900 Gr Pb, 2100 Gr Sb.


Stick-on WW - Roto Metals Super Hard
Top of Page

Notes

Alloy 5

15 lb SWW / 1 & 1.5 lb Super Hard
Notes

Alloy 6


*1 Pound Super Hard
1.5 Pound Super Hard

Lead 109375 Gr. 96.3% ---
Lead

111825 Gr. 95.1%
Antimony 2012 Gr. 1.84% ---
Antimony

3153 Gr. 2.82%
Tin 2056 Gr. 1.88% (4.7 ounces) ---
Tin

2180 Gr. 1.95% (5.0 ounces)
Total weight

16.25 lb
BHN, Min days

---

Total weight

16.75 lb
BHN, Min 2 days 11

*This recipe is close to straight CWW Pb/Sb percentage with about 1.5% added tin (no As when using SWW)
Alloy #6 cast with Lyman #311672 @ 162.5 Gr. (average weight) and air cooled tested 11 BHN with the LBT BHN tester in 24 hours after casting.
Sn % added to Pb weight. Sb % added to Pb weight.
1 lb SWW = 6965 Gr Pb, 35 Gr Sn / 1 lb SH = 4900 Gr Pb, 2100 Gr Sb.


Stick-on WW - Roto Metals Super Hard


Notes

Alloy 7

15 lb SWW w/ 2 & 2.5 lb Super Hard
Notes

Alloy 8


2 Pounds Super Hard

2.5 Pounds Super Hard
Lead 114275 Gr.
94.32%

---
Lead

117775 Gr. 93.55%
Antimony 4205 Gr. 3.68% ---
Antimony

5241 Gr. 4.45%
Tin 2285.5 Gr. 2% (5.2 ounces) ---
Tin

2355 Gr. 2.0% (5.4 ounces)
Total weight

17.25 lb
BHN, Min 2 days 12

---

Total weight

17.9 lb

BHN, Min 2 days 13

Alloy #7 cast with Lyman #311672 @ 161.5 Gr. (average weight) and air cooled tested 12 BHN with the LBT BHN tester 3 days after casting.
Alloy #8 cast with Lyman #311672 @ 161.0 Gr. (average weight) and air cooled tested 13 BHN with the LBT BHN tester 2 days after casting. Alloy #8 was made by adding 1/2 pound and 69.5 Gr. Sn (to keep the Sn percentage at 2%) to alloy #7.
1 lb SWW = 6965 Gr Pb and 35 Gr Sn / 1 lb SH = 4900 Gr Pb, 2100 Gr Sb.

Sn % added to Pb weight. Sb % added to Pb weight.

Top of Page

Alloy 9

Hardball From 6 BHN SWW
Alloy 10

Lyman #2 From 6 BHN SWW
Notes

15 lb SWW / 3.45 lb Super Hard
Notes

15 lb SWW / 3 lb Super Hard






Lead 121380 Gr. 92%


---
Lead

125475 Gr.

90%
Antimony 7282 Gr. 6% ---
Antimony

6273.75 Gr. 5%
Tin 2427 Gr. 2% (5.5 ounces) ---
Tin

6273.75 Gr.
5% (14.3 ounces)

Total weight

18.75 lb
BHN, Min 2 days

12

---
Total weight

19.72 lb

BHN, Min days

Alloy #9 cast with Lyman #311672 @ 161.0 Gr. (average weight) and 12 BHN in 48 hours.
1 lb SWW = 6965 Gr Pb and 35 Gr Sn / 1 lb SH = 4900 Gr Pb, 2100 Gr Sb.
Sn % added to Pb weight. Sb % added to Pb weight.

Notes, conclusions & surprises

Notes & conclusions on alloys 1 and 2: < Go to alloys 1 & 2 >
Alloys #1 & #2, blended from the same lot of clip-on WW, the only difference is the percentage of added tin with alloy #1 having 3.77% and alloy #2 having 1.8% and yet there is marked difference in age hardening. In fact alloy #2 BHN in two days is basically the same BHN as the base metal even though 1 pound of Super Hard was added to 15 pounds CWW doubling the amount of Sb.
Top of Page

Notes & conclusions on alloys 3 and 4: < Go to alloys 3 & 4 >

Neither alloy blended as of this writing.

Notes & conclusions on alloys 5 and 6: < Go to alloys 5 & 6 >
Alloy #5 not yet blended.
Alloy #6 took 6 BHN SWW to 11 BHN in 2 days, basically air cooled CWW BHN.

Notes & conclusions on alloys 7 and 8: < Go to alloys 7 & 8 >
Alloy #8 was blended by adding 0.5 pound Super Hard and enough Sn to keep the percentage at 2% to alloy #7. The modest gain over alloy #7 in BHN for alloy #8 is not an economical use of the Super Hard.

Notes & conclusions on alloy 9: < Go to alloy 9 >
Got SWW or other soft lead alloy? With Super Hard you can turn your soft alloy into Hardball at far less cost than purchasing hardball alloy. Using round numbers and the costs of Hardball vs. the cost of Super Hard and tin at the prices as of this writing the cost to make your own is less than $0.80 per pound for the nearly 19 pounds in the recipe. Hardball is currently on sale at Roto Metals for $2.02 per pound plus shipping. At Midway USA hardball is $3.78 per pound.

Notes & conclusions on alloy 10: < Go to alloy 10 >
The 20 pounds of Lyman #2 in the recipe will cost about $22.00 to make ($1.10 per pound) assuming you already have the soft lead. By contrast Roto Metals (as of this writing) has Lyman #2 on sale @ $2.32 per pound, the regular price is $2.73 per pound with free shipping if your order is over $100.00, Midway USA does not list Lyman #2.

(Table 1) Bullet alloy as-cast & final dia. w/.308 sizing die





Wheel







Lead

Weights

Lyman #2

Linotype

As-cast dia.

.309"

.3095"

.310"

.3104"

Sized dia.

.3078"

.3079"

.3084"

.3084"


(table 2)

Alloy shrinkage of cast bullets
(table 3)

Composition, % Shrinkage
Shrinkage - Bullet Diameter, Inches

Type of alloy

Tin

Antimony Lead BHN Linear, % Alloy .308 .357 .452
Linotype 4 12 84 18 .65 Linotype .002 .0025 .003
Monotype 9 19 72 26 .65 Lyman # 2 .0025 .0025 .0035
Antimony -- 100 -- 50 .47 Soft Lead .0035 .004 .005
Lead -- -- 100 5 1.13
Tin 100 -- -- 7 .90
Top of Page




Key to symbols/abbreviations used in this article
Metal Symbol
Abbreviations

Lead Pb
CWW

Clip-on Wheel Weight (w/2% Sn 11-12 BHN)
Antimony Sb
SWW

Stick-on Wheel Weight (Tape Weights) (Straight SWW 6 BHN)
Tin Sn
WW

Wheel Weight
Arsenic As
SH

Super Hard Alloy (Roto Metals)

lb

Pounds

BHN

Brinell Hardness Number

HT

Heat Treat, quenching from the mold or oven heat treating

Gr.

Grains, (7,000 Gr. = 1pound)

Conversion factors:
To convert grains to ounces multiply grains by .00229, example from alloy #1 above, 4044 Gr Sn X .00229 = 9.26 ounces. (rounded off to nearest 100th of an ounce).

To convert ounces to grains multiply ounces by 437.5, example from alloy #1, 9.26 ounces Sn x 437.5 = 4051 Gr (rounded off to nearest 100th of an ounce).
Top of Page

Roto Metals Super Hard = 70% Pb - 30% Sb / 1lb Super Hard = 4900 Gr Pb / 2100 Gr Sb.

Roto Metals bar tin = 99.9% Pure

Note: You could create the above alloy recipes by converting to ounces rather than grains, however, there are 16 ounces to a pound and 7000 Gr to a pound, any rounding off or minor errors using ounces would create fairly large variations in pot to pot alloy percentages (consistency). A 10% error (or rounding off) with grains is a 70 Gr variation for the entire pot of alloy. A 10% error using ounces is 1.6 ounces or 700 Gr. By converting to grains and rounding off to hundreds of an ounce such variations are statistically irrelevant.

There is only one place you can order Super Hard



http://www.rotometals.com

800-779-1102

$100.00+ orders qualify for free shipping





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The Cast Bullet and Shooting Sports articles of Glen E. Fryxell

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A wide range of bullet casting information


IHMSA BC Provincial Champion and Perfect 40 Score, Unlimited Category, AAA Class.
 
Posts: 3335 | Location: Kamloops, BC | Registered: 09 November 2015Reply With Quote
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I like ‎hochmoulds.com the best.

These molds make beginners look like experts. Must run a little hotter than aluminum moulds.

Brian


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Posts: 3335 | Location: Kamloops, BC | Registered: 09 November 2015Reply With Quote
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or you could go to the site I suggested and talk to Glen Fryxell himself.

he won't go to the boolits site, but does frequent the one I linked... for a reason.
 
Posts: 4962 | Location: soda springs,id | Registered: 02 April 2008Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Lamar:
or you could go to the site I suggested and talk to Glen Fryxell himself.

he won't go to the boolits site, but does frequent the one I linked... for a reason.


Yeah because of all the know it all's like larrrrryy gibson. Speaking of which, Brains post was soooo long I wonder if he is related to larrrrry?

Anyways good advice Lamar.
 
Posts: 662 | Registered: 15 May 2018Reply With Quote
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Yes, I got cross threaded with a couple of jerks on the Cast Boolit site. I found some good/helpful guys there too when I was starting out casting for my .577 NE, which I later killed three cape buffalo with. (700 gr bullet, 22 BHN, not brittle. Three feet straight penetration.)

Lamar, I just went to the sight you posted. Excellent. Thanks for the connection.

My long post above is cut and paste is from The Los Angeles Handgun, Rifle, Air Pistol, Hunter/Field Pistol Silhouette Club. It's interesting there too. (Apologies for how long it is. I had a run away. Just trying to help.)


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Posts: 3335 | Location: Kamloops, BC | Registered: 09 November 2015Reply With Quote
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No problem Brian. Brian there is a guy named Razor Dobbs and he hunts big game in Africa. Thing is some of them he hunts with a 10mm Sig 1911 using hard cast. He has taken two Cape Buffalo with that set up and he waits for the perfect shot and distance he wants to shoot. On one the buffs the bullet passed all the way through. These were broad side heart shots. The buffs didn't go right down, but neither did they run very far. I watched it on videos. Very impressive for a 10mm pistol and hard cast bullet.
 
Posts: 662 | Registered: 15 May 2018Reply With Quote
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no problem.
it's usually easier to just link the LAHSC site.
it is full of basic beginner stuff that will get someone up and going pretty well.

the owner of the LAHSC site is also a member of the artful site I linked, and is a frequent contributor to the forum.
 
Posts: 4962 | Location: soda springs,id | Registered: 02 April 2008Reply With Quote
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Years ago, Larry Gibson posted on this site. I did not see him listed as a member now--don't know what happened. He posted in the air gun section. He once posted a story he had written, but removed it. You could tell by the story that he had illusions of being an author. The story started something like: It was a crisp fall day and the sun was cascading down on the Cathedral Mountains. The jest of the story was that a group of his friends had drawn elk permits (Larry was not drawn) and the season would open the following week. One of the hunters and Larry were going to scout the area. For what purpose I don't recall, possibly no purpose stated, but Larry carried his air rifle. The two had split up and Larry was resting with his back up against a tree overlooking a valley. Soon elk started gathering in the valley and feeding closer to Larry. One majestic bull elk had a mud clod attached to his skin. Larry couldn't resist and took aim on the clod and shot it. For what purpose other than being stupid, I have no idea. I think (I'm not a law person) this would violate many laws. I would think a few I come up with would be (1)out of season (2)no license (3) illegal weapon (4)harassing game animal (5)animal cruelty possibly others? I don't know if that many offenses would put it in the category of a felony ( I hope someone with legal knowledge would answer that). If it would be a felony, he would no longer be eligible to own a firearm. To compound this, he was the game warden for his Army post and would have damned well known better. If I were one of the friends that would be hunting there, I'd have turned him in. Can you imagine what reaction this would have gotten if he did it in let's say Yellowstone Park in front of a crowd? Someone would have made him wish he had left more lubricant on the gun when he cleaned it.
 
Posts: 3797 | Location: san angelo tx | Registered: 18 November 2009Reply With Quote
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He got banned for fighting with Starmetal. In fact his gang he brought with him got banned too. That's Idabull and PatI. Now he owns the Administration on the former Castboolits forum and runs it as you can see in the picture below.

 
Posts: 662 | Registered: 15 May 2018Reply With Quote
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Gunz, did you find the information you are looking for?
Frankly, if I were starting out again I would stick with the Lee bottom-pour production pot and a couple of affordable Lee molds to learn with. If you have a gravel pit or shooting range nearby, you can scrounge FIRED bullets and stick them in your pot. As they melt the dirt and jackets will float to the surface like lint. No, you won't know for sure what hardness you have, but the bullets will be fine for learning with.
You can flux with a piece of beeswax, but I have used Marvelux from Brownells for years with full satisfaction.
Cautions are to wear glasses, high-topped shoes and cotton long-sleeve shirt, have adequate ventilation and whatever you do, do not let a single drop of water get near that hot lead, ever.


There is hope, even when your brain tells you there isn’t.
– John Green, author
 
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