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For some reason my arrows are wearing away my rest implants really fast. I went through the ones that came with the rest, a set of brand new rubber implants that are attached to the metal prongs, and then a set of what I was told was teflon but may not be that go on the original prongs. I just ordered some fuzzy ones from cabelas that are supposed to last a long time, and in case they don't work I got some of that liquid teflon stuff that you dip the prongs in. Does anyone have any suggestions? Is there something I could be doing wrong? The fletchings arent touching so it's just where the arrow is contacting it. Does anyone else have this problem. By the way I have a Quick Tune 1000 rest, and I'm using easton carbons (i forget the model, but they are cheaper ones) and I'm shooting a parker hunter mag set at 66#. Thanks in advance everyone.

Andy
 
Posts: 23 | Registered: 02 April 2005Reply With Quote
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If you are wearing them out that fast I would bet that you may have a tuning issue. The arrow is probably forcefully sliding on the rest when released. Some bows are hard to get away from this w/o going to a drop away rest. I had a bow that pressed on the rest and wore the rest despite how you tried to tune it. I installed a drop away and it shot much better.

I buy the heat shrink tubing at Napa, the rubbery type not the cheap slick type like at auto zone. It works well on the prong type rest and it's cheap. One little bag last for years of shooting.

Good Luck

Reloader
 
Posts: 4146 | Location: North Louisiana | Registered: 18 February 2004Reply With Quote
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Reloader has the answer. The bow is not tuned properly. Thin shrink tubing or the ones that come with the rest should last for years.
You may also be forcing the arrow down tight on the rest when you draw.
 
Posts: 4068 | Location: Bakerton, WV | Registered: 01 September 2003Reply With Quote
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How do I tune it so that it won't wear away at the rest so much?

Thanks
Andy
 
Posts: 23 | Registered: 02 April 2005Reply With Quote
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Tuning will result in less rest wear. Remember you tune so that the arrow and bow do what they are supposed to do. The rest wear is just a symptom of something possibly not right.
 
Posts: 2763 | Registered: 11 March 2004Reply With Quote
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Ok, I'm not sure if I mentioned this but I'm really new to archery and when you say "tuning" I have no clue what you are talking about... Are you talking about the cams being syncronized or something with the actual rest? If it's the cames being synchronized, I have a single cam bow so shouldn't it be close to synchronized already?? Thanks for all the help so far, I'm just very clueless when it comes to this stuff. I've been practicing shooting for a while now and I've gotten pretty good in that aspect, but all the technical stuff with the bow I havn't learned yet. Thanks again.

Andy
 
Posts: 23 | Registered: 02 April 2005Reply With Quote
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Andy,

Do you know any local competition shooters? Most of them could have your bow tuned in a pinch.

Is ther any reputable local archery shops in your area? Tuning at the shope should be pretty inexpensive.

There are some websites on the web that are good sources for tuning your rig yourself.

I personally like to paper tune my bows w/ thin paper such a newspaper type material. Shooting through the paper from 3 and 6 feet seems to work well. You can also do a search on Yahoo or Google to get some good pointers on this.

Some folks also like bare shaft tuning.

Just remember when you go to tune that moving the rest or knock just a little goes a long ways as far as tuning is concerned so. use minor movements.

Good Luck

Reloader
 
Posts: 4146 | Location: North Louisiana | Registered: 18 February 2004Reply With Quote
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Go here and download the tuning section;
http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloads.asp
 
Posts: 4068 | Location: Bakerton, WV | Registered: 01 September 2003Reply With Quote
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Thanks for the link. I went to a local archery shop and he explained the paper tuning more in depth and told me how to do everything and I did it, and the arrows went through the paper completely straight. I'm completely at a loss now as to what I should do. I'm willing to go to a drop away, but only as a last resort. Is there anything else I can do? Thanks for all the help so far.

Andy
 
Posts: 23 | Registered: 02 April 2005Reply With Quote
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That is strange! Most wear comes from drawing the arrow across the rest.
I have to wonder if you are holding the bow too tight or lifting it at the shot and it is tuned for your style.
Don't be afraid of the drop away rests. I use Trapdoors and the Ultra rest and will never go back. They are amazing.
 
Posts: 4068 | Location: Bakerton, WV | Registered: 01 September 2003Reply With Quote
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I'm not afraid of the drop aways, actually I want one, but I can't keep spending so much money on this bow. If I end up having to buy new implants every week because it wears them out then it would end up being cheaper to buy a new drop away. Also, I shoot with a loose grip and I'm not sure what you mean by "tuned for my style". Also, if I end up having to go with a drop away, does anyone have a quick tune 2100, because that's the one I'm leaning towards if I do have to get one. Thanks again everyone.

Andy
 
Posts: 23 | Registered: 02 April 2005Reply With Quote
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What I mean't was if you lift the bow at the shot, the nocking point would be different. My friend was doing that and had a lot of trouble getting his set. Watching him was hard to catch the problem, his arm would go up a little at the shot which forced the rest into the arrow. He had tuned around the problem by moving his nocking point but his accuracy was really bad. Took forever to get him to relax and let the bow drop against the sling. He would hold with an open hand and grab the bow on release also.
Is it the arrow shaft wearing your covers or is it fletch contact?
 
Posts: 4068 | Location: Bakerton, WV | Registered: 01 September 2003Reply With Quote
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It's the arrow shaft. I'll have someone watch me shoot tomorror to see if I'm lifting my hand at all. That really makes sense, and I'm kinda hoping that's what it is because I'd rather have to fix something that I'm doing than something wrong with the bow. Thanks for the help bfrshooter.

Andy
 
Posts: 23 | Registered: 02 April 2005Reply With Quote
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Let us know what you find. Another thing that can cause it is the spring tension of the rest is too tight for the weight of your arrows. The rest is not flexing down and the shaft is riding it hard all the way.
 
Posts: 4068 | Location: Bakerton, WV | Registered: 01 September 2003Reply With Quote
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I changed the tension to make it a little lighter before, and it is almost as light as it can go without the arrow weight pushing it down. Then I paper tuned and the arrows were going though straight so it's where it has to be. I'm going to a 3-d shoot today so I'm gonna try to talk to some people about it and see if anyone there has some advice. If not I found a great deal on a nap quick tune smart rest so I may be getting that. Thanks again.

Andy

Oh, I forgot to mention, I had my dad watch my hand today and he said it wasn't moving at all so that must not be the problem.
 
Posts: 23 | Registered: 02 April 2005Reply With Quote
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Everything sounds good so it must just be one of those things! Maybe a different material to cover the fingers is the answer.
 
Posts: 4068 | Location: Bakerton, WV | Registered: 01 September 2003Reply With Quote
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Thats what I was thinking and I've tried 5 different covers:

Facotry rubber ones
Other rubber ones
Teflong sleeves
Fuzzy ones
Paint on teflon

None worked...

I talked to a guy at a 3d shoot today and he was really nice. He said that I'm probably going to have to go with the drop away, so I guess I am. He was an older guy, and he let me shoot his bow and his arrows. He has the quickspin vanes which by the way I'll be getting soon. They shot so nice!! His bow was set up for hunting and was really nice. I shot 2 shots at 25 yards with his bow and arrows and they were within less than an inch of each other which I consider good for not ever shooting his bow before.

I found a nap smart rest for $20 (compared to $95 at cabelas) brand new in box in an auction so I'm gonna try to get it. If not there is also the nap quick tune 2100 for $40 ($60 at cabelas). Thanks again everyone for all of the help, hopefully I won't need any help with the new rest!!

Andy
 
Posts: 23 | Registered: 02 April 2005Reply With Quote
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Hello the campfire:
I assume tha tClem is talking about arrow rest implants and not silicon brest implants, which will also get you a "good rack". Of course those aren't legal touse anymore. It sounds like you could use differant type of rest. I like the wisker bisquit, but I know that others don't like them. If the bow shoots straight and seems to be tuned correctly, the inserts can't be too costly. Go with what you have and just replace thee inserts when needed.

Judge Sharpe


Is it safe to let for a 58 year old man run around in the woods unsupervised with a high powered rifle?
 
Posts: 486 | Registered: 16 December 2004Reply With Quote
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The teflon implants are $6-$8 a pair, and I need a new pair every few days, so its gonna end up being cheaper to buy a new rest since I shoot so much. I've heard too much about the whisker biscut eating up vanes, so I'm going with a drop away.

Andy
 
Posts: 23 | Registered: 02 April 2005Reply With Quote
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I am using a Ripcord drop away. Seems pretty good so far.

My friend Don_G uses a QAD Ultra drop away. Seems like the cats meow to me. Sadly I couldn't wait long enough to custom order one (not a great selection locally), so I went with what I could get (the Ripcord).

It does seem odd you would be wearing out your implants that fast, and have the bow tuned well. Very odd. You don't have sandpaper glued to your shafts, eh? Wink

Cheers,
Canuck
 
Posts: 7118 | Location: The Rock (southern V.I.) | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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